Turia Dungaree Dress

It seems that Spring has sprung in the UK, so I got my timing just right for making the Pauline Alice Turia Dungarees! Pinafore dresses seem to have been everywhere for agesssss now. I've experimented with making my own overalls and bib fronted skirts, but I really wanted a proper denim dungaree dress - I even tried a few (badly fitting and cheaply made) ones on in the shops, but no success there.

Turia dungaree dress!

I like the Marilla Walker Roberts Collection but wanted something a bit closer fitting, so when I saw that Pauline had posted a hack tutorial on how to make a dress variation of the Turia Dungarees, I was totally sold! You just make some slight and very simple adjustments to the shorts front and back pattern pieces, add a bit of length, and then you have a skirt - I'd definitely recommend trying it!

Dress variation hack - see here for full instructions

I made mine in this great mid-weight blue denim from Fabworks. It's not often I wear or work with denim, but I loved the cross hatch pattern woven into it, and the weight was ideal for this project too. Another bonus: it was only £6 per metre!

Bright blue denim in the sun light!

I cut the bottom pieces in a size 40, and the top in a 42 (I  didn't really need to size up, but I thought I'd go for a bit more fabric to accommodate my bust) and the sizing was pretty much spot on. Construction-wise, the instructions are clear and easy to follow. There's a fair bit of precision required for the pocket making and top-stitching, but I really enjoyed paying attention to the fine details. I wasn't brave enough to use a contrast colour thread for my top-stitching, but I think that can be excused, as the pattern of my fabric is already quite bold.

Precise pocket pattern matching

What I am particularly proud of is the great effort I went to with pattern matching. To be honest, it was a bit of a fluke that I got the skirt pockets so well lined up, but the bodice was a whole other story... I had to re-cut all of the top pieces - bodice, top pocket and top pocket welt - because the cross hatch pattern was so skewed. Luckily I had enough fabric and my post-make satisfaction levels suggest it was well worth the extra effort!

Loving the front pockets on the skirt!

The pattern instructs you to fit zip fastenings on each side, but I only did it on one - the dress variation is pretty easy to get on with just one zip. In the fabric and notion requirements, it states that you need regular zippers, but I took mine out and swapped it for an invisible one for a neater finish. Note: it does state you can use an invisible or exposed zipper later on in the instructions, but I'm the sort of person who only reads as far as the first page before getting started with the making!

Windswept side shot

I was a bit naughty and didn't do flat fell seams where they were recommended, but that's because I thought it would be more difficult to adjust the size if I'd needed to. Now I know that it's a good fit, I'd probably give them a go next time.

A proper dungaree back!

I love the shape of the back! One of my straps is a little squiffy but I can live with it. I'd be tempted to sew the straps in at a slight angle next time, positioned the way they sit during wear - maybe this would remedy the squiffiness (technical term). I'd also move the back pockets a little further down.

Antique finish hardware from Green Grizzly

Having to hunt down the buckles and buttons is something that used to put me right off a make, but I'm getting really into sewing things that require hardware - like the Retro Rucksack and Nita Wrap Skirt. The buckles and buttons I used are from Green Grizzly. I bought packs of 10, so I'm definitely up for making another pair or two - no stopping me! This was the first time I'd inserted no sew buttons and it was quite easy, but I'm glad I did a practice first. You're meant to just hammer them in, but I did a quick squeeze with the pliers too to make sure they were super secure.

It took a bit of adjusting the straps to get it to sit right on me, but I LOVE the finished Turia dungaree dress! It feels great to know that I made my own version, rather than settling for the less than sparkling offerings of the high street. I'll place a bet now that it'll be my most worn item through Spring and Summer! Version 2 is already planned out in my head - plain black denim or canvas, potentially braving some jazzy top-stitching too.

Thanks Chris for patiently taking all these pictures before breakfast!

Now to make some suitable Spring/Summer tops to wear with them - any suggestions?

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