3 imperfect Landers, but what have I learnt?

Monday, February 12, 2018

I'm obsessed with the True Bias Lander Pants, partly because I love the silhouette and partly through sheer determination to nail the fit. I've made them 3 times now, with sizing tweaks each time: pair 1 in khaki cotton drill (blogged here), the second in black denim, and the latest in blue denim, but have I actually made them work? I think I'm starting to understand that size isn't everything *ahem* when it comes to trouser fitting...

Lander Pants pair 3!
I've downsized each time when making the Landers. By no means were my first two pairs unwearable, but the fit is looser than I would like around the waist and hips. The differences between the sizing brackets are pretty subtle and having a 1" side seam allowance to play around with gave me a little more confidence to downsize again, this time cutting a 4.

From top: Size 8, Size 6 and Size 4
With this pair, I've finally achieved the snug hip/waist fit I was going for, but what I wasn't fully prepared for was the knock on affect that this would have on the fit in other areas. It turns out that when wearing them, they aren't particularly comfortable in the crotch area - like sitting down in them all day at work is just not fun. Thinking about yourself as having a 'long crotch' is quite weird isn't it? So thanks go to the Closet Case Patterns pants fitting adjustments guide which made me feel a bit more confident in diagnosing and accepting this area of mis-fit.

Pictures by my friend Alex

I wish I'd found this trouser fitting bible sooner in my naive quest for proper-fitting Landers. Here are the things from it that I'll be addressing in Lander Pants pair four (and I'm determined they'll be my perfect pair):

1) A low seat adjustment for my flat bum (yes I noticed this with previous pairs, but one thing at a time).
2) Lengthening the crotch!
3) Using a curved waistband to avoid the slight gaping at the back.
4) And... using the pocket piece/positioning of the smaller sizes as I think they look just too big on the bum of the size 4.

My slightly baggy pair two worn for a weekend in London
In good news, I've found that a heavier denim works really well for jean Landers and I'd definitely use it again in future. I know I need to add a good few inches to the cropped view to make them that perfect 'Insta-fashionista' ankle boot-skimming length - though I'm tempted to just go full length next time - and I've got better at inserting the jean buttons each time. Interfacing the right hand fly piece helped (the pattern doesn't specifically instruct to do this) and using proper quality Prym buttons with Prym pliers made the task much easier.

Buttons on pair 2
One thing I still don't get is how do people do neat button holes for jeans? I used the automatic buttonhole function on my machine which was fine, but once opened, they seem to just look messy and frayed. I ended up going over the machine stitching by hand just to make sure it was secured in place. If anyone has any tips or could point me in the right direction that would be fab!

So I'm clearly not done with this pattern just yet. And I hate to admit it, but I definitely should've done a muslin at the start. I'm convinced by looking at the Instagram hashtag that the Landers suit/look cool on just about anyone, I just need to finish finding that balance between fit and comfort with mine, but I think I'm getting there... 

Stay in touch!



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Shauni S

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12 comments

  1. Ana12 February 2018 at 15:54

    Love all three pairs and they look great in the photos! The colours are fab!
    I understand what you mean by fit issues. I made a muslin for one fitted pair and they were fine so I decided to batch sew three pairs. Well, it turns out that when you use cheap stretch something for a muslin it does not act the same as a more stable fabric you use for the real thing so it all goes out the window. I plan to use the same fitting guide to try and save them (if I need to add a bit more fabric in the crotch area I doubt anyone would see - well I sure hope so!). And I plan too be smarter next time and do one pair at a time.
    Good luck with the 4th pair!

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    1. Shauni S13 February 2018 at 21:11

      Thank you Ana! As much as I don't like to hear about other people's fit difficulties, it's nice to know that I'm not alone. I think these ones might have been that bit more wearable had I used a denim with more stretch, so I understand where you're coming from fabric-wise. Fingers crossed we both have more success with pair 4 :) x

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  2. Claudia12 February 2018 at 17:33

    I'm definitely going to be referencing this post and your others when it comes time to make mine, and I think I'll go with a muslin first because I often have fit issues because I've got hips but a smaller waist. I hate the gapping that happens on the back of the waistband, but I fear not enough room for the hips. Thanks for all your advice!

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    1. Shauni S13 February 2018 at 21:13

      Thanks Claudia! The wider side seam allowance is really good for fitting through the hips so hopefully you'll find them ok! I'll definitely be making a muslin next time I try trousers x

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  3. Unknown12 February 2018 at 18:12

    Good on you for sticking with it--the blue pair look really good! (Then again, I've thought all your pairs so far were good-looking and well-made, but you're the one who knows how well they fit. ;-) ) Once you get the crotch fit the way you want it, you will be able to transfer that to any other pair of fitted pants--it's the best feeling ever! I am about to start my first pair of Lander pants, and I have penciled in my pattern changes based on my pants block. Like you, I will have a dilemma about the back pockets: I need to remove quite a bit of width from the center back and may need to make the pockets smaller AND relocate them. O_o But first I need to worry about sewing the pants up, LOL!

    As for your buttonhole troubles, I swear by Angela Kane's method (look for her jeans videos on Youtube) because you can make the buttonhole wider, which makes them easier to open without ripping your stitches. (I've made myself a little cardboard template that can I trace onto my pants before I start to make sure they're all mostly identical, LOL.)

    -Abbey

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    1. Shauni S13 February 2018 at 21:17

      Thank you Abbey! I do like and wear all my pairs, but I'm just so desperate to get the perfect fit and comfort combo!! I'm definitely keen to get the fit on the crotch right and then I'm sure I'll be able to amend other patterns off of it like you say :) I think I need a pants block too so this might be something to look into drafting at a class...

      Hope your Lander Pants work out perfectly with your adjustments! And thank you so much for the buttonhole tips - I'll definitely be referring to them for pair 4 :) x

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  4. Caroline13 February 2018 at 06:40

    I am really loving your adventures in trouser fitting! All your pairs look great, but like you mention the most important aspect is the feel and fit of them.
    Your most recent pair look fab but if sitting down is painful your ideas for a hybrid of versions seems like a great idea. Good luck with your continuing Lander experiments!

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    1. Shauni S13 February 2018 at 21:18

      Thank you Caroline! I thought it was important to talk about the realities of fitting trousers because an Instagram pic can only show so much! Totally need to work on the fit/comfort balance - thank you for the encouragement :)

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  5. Naomi13 February 2018 at 07:14

    I did heaps of muslining and tweaks with my Landers but still don't feel I've got the fit how I want. It seems like I have similar issues as you, as I get that wedgie feeling when I sit down. I still love the pattern, I just wish I had an expert around to help me out! Crotch fitting is hard!

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    1. Shauni S13 February 2018 at 21:20

      Hi Naomi! I feel like I should've taken a leaf out of your book and done some muslining... how strange that I'll be making my muslin after pair 3! As much as I don't like to hear people having problems with fitting, it's nice to know that it's not just me. The Closet Case Patterns guide makes the adjustments look really simple - fingers crossed we can both get our Landers to fit spot on! Good luck!! xx

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  6. hilde13 February 2018 at 15:08

    Great post, always good to hear the journey to the perfect pair! Fitting is hard work, good of you to stick with it!

    I have made a pair of Lander shorts and want a ankle grazer length one as well now, I have a non-stretch thinker denim I might use. Good to hear that a thicker denim worked for you.

    As for buttonholes: I also use my automatic buttonholer, after which I apply Fray Stop en cut them with a button hole cutter (mine is from Clover), there's hardly any fraying this way. Hope that helps!

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    1. Shauni S13 February 2018 at 21:23

      Thank you Hilde for the encouragement! I keep flipping between massively disappointed with my efforts so far and hugely excited for the fitted pants that are still to come! I'd definitely recommend a denim pair :) And so grateful for the buttonhole tips - a couple of people have mentioned Fray Stop so I'll definitely give it a try xx

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