Turia dungaree dress #2

denim
Hola! I've just returned from a recent trip to Barcelona where I managed to get some lovely sunny snaps of my second, (new and improved with adjustments) Pauline Alice Turia Dungaree Dress. I must say this about nearly every make, but it's definitely my new favourite. I think this one is very deserving of it's place on a pedestal for the sheer amount of effort that went into making it.

2nd Turia Dungaree Dress
I already sung the pattern's praises the first time round, and now I knew what to expect, it felt easier to put a bit more planning and effort into the finish of the garment. First up, I knew I wanted a slightly heavier denim in black. Quality black denim was surprisingly hard to come by! I finally found this mid-heavy weight denim in Fabworks - but I've also been informed by the lovely Sew Essential team that they stock black denim too! The weight is perfect, and holds it's shape much better during wear (creases above only the result of the flight to Barcelona!!)

Finishing the pocket edges
I think I was feeling brave/inspired in the wake of The Big Simplicity Blog Meet, so I went for contrast topstitching on the pockets and top of the bib - in what I can only describe as 'Doc Marten yellow'. I even bought proper topstitching thread, which it turns out, requires a larger needle (which I used) or preferably a special topstitching needle (if you've got one) and an increased stitch length. You can sort of tell I was a bit nervous at getting the 2 rows of stitching neat and parallel in parts, but I'm super proud of the effort! I think the little wobbles add a certain charm :)

Pre-buttons and buckles
I used bias binding where needed to conceal the raw edges on the inside pockets and back - the main edge is machine stitched and then I hand stitched it in place on the inside. I blindly put all faith in the instructions with my first pair, which frayed like mad in the wash on the bits where there weren't explicit directions to finish the raw edge. Ah what a thing hindsight is... It took a bit of time to do, but I'm SO pleased with the finish.

Back view
Adjustments:

- I adjusted the positioning of the back pockets - I thought they were too high and too far apart last time - which has worked out pretty well. Note: topstitch detailing on them too - I was really starting to enjoy it by this point!

- I sewed the back straps in slightly angled towards the direction they go during wear. I suspected this might improve the fit after making my last pair and it really did the trick - thanks Jo for letting me know that it worked for hers and giving me the confidence to try it!

Final picture - just ready to head in for day 1 of Primavera!
And then it was just the buttons and buckles to add - both from Green Grizzly again. I sewed the buckles in place rather than knotting the straps this time, as I thought it more suited the 'neat' finish I was going for.

Finished with buckles and buttons!
I have some pretty big makes on my 'to-sew' pile, and a house move on the cards for June, but when I finally get chance, I'd love to hack the pattern to make a long button down version like this one from Monki.
A very hackable option for the Turia Pattern
Thanks again Pauline Alice for my perfect summer pattern! (which will probably see me into autumn and winter too).


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Turia Dungaree Dress

finished project
It seems that Spring has sprung in the UK, so I got my timing just right for making the Pauline Alice Turia Dungarees! Pinafore dresses seem to have been everywhere for agesssss now. I've experimented with making my own overalls and bib fronted skirts, but I really wanted a proper denim dungaree dress - I even tried a few (badly fitting and cheaply made) ones on in the shops, but no success there.

Turia dungaree dress!
I like the Marilla Walker Roberts Collection but wanted something a bit closer fitting, so when I saw that Pauline had posted a hack tutorial on how to make a dress variation of the Turia Dungarees, I was totally sold! You just make some slight and very simple adjustments to the shorts front and back pattern pieces, add a bit of length, and then you have a skirt - I'd definitely recommend trying it!

Dress variation hack - see here for full instructions
I made mine in this great mid-weight blue denim from Fabworks. It's not often I wear or work with denim, but I loved the cross hatch pattern woven into it, and the weight was ideal for this project too. Another bonus: it was only £6 per metre!

Bright blue denim in the sun light!
I cut the bottom pieces in a size 40, and the top in a 42 (I  didn't really need to size up, but I thought I'd go for a bit more fabric to accommodate my bust) and the sizing was pretty much spot on. Construction-wise, the instructions are clear and easy to follow. There's a fair bit of precision required for the pocket making and top-stitching, but I really enjoyed paying attention to the fine details. I wasn't brave enough to use a contrast colour thread for my top-stitching, but I think that can be excused, as the pattern of my fabric is already quite bold.

Precise pocket pattern matching
What I am particularly proud of is the great effort I went to with pattern matching. To be honest, it was a bit of a fluke that I got the skirt pockets so well lined up, but the bodice was a whole other story... I had to re-cut all of the top pieces - bodice, top pocket and top pocket welt - because the cross hatch pattern was so skewed. Luckily I had enough fabric and my post-make satisfaction levels suggest it was well worth the extra effort!

Loving the front pockets on the skirt!
The pattern instructs you to fit zip fastenings on each side, but I only did it on one - the dress variation is pretty easy to get on with just one zip. In the fabric and notion requirements, it states that you need regular zippers, but I took mine out and swapped it for an invisible one for a neater finish. Note: it does state you can use an invisible or exposed zipper later on in the instructions, but I'm the sort of person who only reads as far as the first page before getting started with the making!

Windswept side shot
I was a bit naughty and didn't do flat fell seams where they were recommended, but that's because I thought it would be more difficult to adjust the size if I'd needed to. Now I know that it's a good fit, I'd probably give them a go next time.

A proper dungaree back!
I love the shape of the back! One of my straps is a little squiffy but I can live with it. I'd be tempted to sew the straps in at a slight angle next time, positioned the way they sit during wear - maybe this would remedy the squiffiness (technical term). I'd also move the back pockets a little further down.

Antique finish hardware from Green Grizzly
Having to hunt down the buckles and buttons is something that used to put me right off a make, but I'm getting really into sewing things that require hardware - like the Retro Rucksack and Nita Wrap Skirt. The buckles and buttons I used are from Green Grizzly. I bought packs of 10, so I'm definitely up for making another pair or two - no stopping me! This was the first time I'd inserted no sew buttons and it was quite easy, but I'm glad I did a practice first. You're meant to just hammer them in, but I did a quick squeeze with the pliers too to make sure they were super secure.

It took a bit of adjusting the straps to get it to sit right on me, but I LOVE the finished Turia dungaree dress! It feels great to know that I made my own version, rather than settling for the less than sparkling offerings of the high street. I'll place a bet now that it'll be my most worn item through Spring and Summer! Version 2 is already planned out in my head - plain black denim or canvas, potentially braving some jazzy top-stitching too.

Thanks Chris for patiently taking all these pictures before breakfast!
Now to make some suitable Spring/Summer tops to wear with them - any suggestions?


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