Papercut Patterns Kyoto

Burda
This year's Me Made May (once again) highlighted my startling lack of tops to pair with my many culottes, growing trouser collection and the odd skirt. I struggle with finding appropriate summer tops as I'm fairly self-concious when it comes to strappy things, so when I saw the new Sakura collection from Papercut Patterns, the not-too-revealing Kyoto, with it's quirky ruffles, really excited me! It's also aptly named, as we're jetting off to Japan next month and plan to visit Kyoto while we're there! Here are the two versions I've made so far:

2 Papercut Patterns Kyoto tops
The PDF pattern was reasonably priced, and there really aren't too many pages to print. If you're savvy and only want to make the t-shirt version, you could save a few more pages by skipping the sweater sleeve (I'm saving that version for the winter). One of my only criticisms of the pattern is the suggested lay plan. Cutting 'on-the fold' pieces out on the flat feels like so much effort, so I opted to fold both sides of the fabric so they met at the middle and all pieces that needed it could be cut on the fold - much more efficient!
Suggested lay plan...
...vs my alternative lay plan - note I did actually move piece 4 so the grain was the right way
I'm a long time fan of the Papercut Rise/Fall Turtleneck pattern, and the instructions aren't too dissimilar to that - easy to follow and quick to construct. I cut a size Small based on the finished measurements (my actual measurements fall into the Medium), first in the white jersey. I was clearly really confident that this pattern would be a hit when I did my jersey shop, buying white, black and pale pink in one go. It only takes 1.1m (and you could probably squeeze it out of 1m) making it a pretty cheap pattern to sew up! Here's a look at version number two, in a pink jersey mix:
Wearing my pink Kyoto with a new pair of B6178 culottes
I used my machine fitted with a walking foot and stretch needle to sew all the seams and finished raw edges with the overlocker. There's some fairly delicate topstitching to be done around the neck edge and along the hem of the ruffles, but nothing too challenging. The most time consuming bit of the make was gathering the ruffles to fit them into the sleeves, but the whole thing only took a few hours - hence making two in a very short space of time!

I really like the fit of the finished top. It is over-sized in style, so if you want something a bit closer fitting then definitely down size. The neckline on my white version came up quite wide, but I think I may have accidentally stretched it out while making. The neckline on the pink version, made with a slightly more stable knit, sits spot on, so this might just be something to keep an eye on depending on your fabric!

My boyfriend questioned why all of my recent makes have 'clown-features' - with reference to this vintage ruffle shirt - to which I protested that it was most definitely the year of the ruffle/sleeve (back me up on this ladies)! I love the ruffles and I think they add just the right amount of interest to an otherwise plain t-shirt, without being totally over the top (or clown like).


I'll definitely be making the Kyoto again - of course, as I've already bought the fabric in! Both versions actually mark an end to my long time aversion to wearing white/pale colours, and it's quite refreshing - I'm going to have start putting a white wash on..! Will you be making anything from the Sakura collection?
Quick look at the new Papercut Patterns collection
In other jersey sewing news, I recently tried out my very first Burda pattern, the #114 knot dress from the 05/2017 issue or online here. I really liked the tie waist detail and luckily for me, it was the 'sewing lesson' for that month so it had extra instructions and the pattern pieces were shaded in pink to make tracing them off spaghetti junction that bit easier. I made a size 42, which came up really big! I took huge amounts out of the side seams and cut a big chunk off the hem, which has actually changed the fit of the dress completely, but it's definitely 100 times more wearable! I had intended it to only be for holiday, but here I am wearing it during a bit of a heatwave we had here in the UK recently, and I really quite like it :)

Braving Burda
I feel like I might be getting into this sewing with jersey thing! What are your favourite summer patterns for working in stretch fabric?


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Sew Loux

finished project
You may have seen some sneak snippets and semi-cryptic captions on my Instagram recently, so I'm really excited to finally share what for me has been a project of epic proportions: making clothes for the screen! Please meet Loux, and their beautifully shot and colour-schemed video for the song Darling:
Loux shot at Victoria Baths, Manchester

More specifically meet front woman Jordan, who I first met up with last summer to begin the process of making her Wes Anderson inspired colour palette come to life (in clothing form). The vision and styling were pretty clear from the start - an cool, slightly androgynous and exaggerated silhouette, offset by a selection of well paired and carefully considered colours.

Jordan - Loux
I drew from my already existing pattern collection (vintage and present day) plus a couple of charity shop patterns that Jordan sourced. By the time the shoot came round in early February, I'd managed to sew up a capsule wardrobe of two tops, two pairs of culottes, a pair of trousers (my very first fly front ever - talk about nerve wracking!) and a vintage shirt - phew!

Loux
The specifics:

Papercut Patterns Fall Turtleneck x2
Forever a favourite pattern of mine, we made this up twice to get the exact colour spot on. The fabrics are from Minerva and Fabworks.
Papercut Patterns Rise Turtleneck x2 and culottes (just seen)
B6178 Culottes x2
I've blogged my love for this Butterick pattern previously here. We made these up twice to get a better fit around the hips and waist, and the 2nd pair turned out just perfect! The fabrics were both super cheap, draping, emerald greens from Bombay Stores.

Vintage New Look 6316 blouse
This was one of Jordan's pattern picks, sourced in a charity shop; a boxy, retro blouse (minus the shoulder pads) with some neat tucks and detailing. It's made up in a salmon pink cotton from Fabworks, which makes quite a bold statement in the video.

Vintage New Look 6316

Vintage Me Magazine Palazzo Pants in deep blue/green cotton drill (Fabworks)
This was my first attempt at this 90s magazine pattern and I loved the results so much that I went and made my own pair! They're made up in the perfect weight deep blue/green cotton drill from Fabworks.

My first ever fly front fastening!

Behind the scenes:
I went along to see the video being shot at the beautiful Victoria Baths in Manchester. Here are a few behind the scenes shots that were too lovely not to share:







I hope you all enjoy the video/song/clothes as much as I've enjoyed being a part of it!
For updates from Loux, find them on Facebook
and Instagram

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Another RTW rip off: Rise Turtleneck hack

finished project
Another week, another RTW item to rip off (*I mean make my own version of). This time the inspiration came in the form of a knit top from Finery, a mostly online brand that sells some pretty interesting garments in terms of shape and fabric combos. The top was £65, so not quite as steep as the inspiration for last week's Sahara Shirt, but still pricey, especially when you consider how not-too-far-away it is in style from the Papercut Patterns Rise/Fall Turtleneck pattern.

A Papercut Patterns Rise Turtleneck hack!

The inspiration, c/o Finery
With just a few splices to the front pattern piece, the Rise Turtleneck served as the perfect starting point for a hack. I traced the front out so it could be cut as one rather than on the fold, then drew a 'channel' on one side and cut down the lines. This split the front into 3 pattern pieces (remembering that the long straight edges of each piece needed a 1cm seam allowance adding at cutting). I also extended the length by 12cm so there was plenty room for the top to be ruched up, and added a couple of inches to the sleeve length. In hindsight, I wish I'd have cut the Fall Turtleneck's neckband instead, but I'll keep this in mind for next time.

Edits to the front pattern piece
I cut 2 of the 'channel' pieces and sewed them together to the new main front and side front pattern pieces. Something I didn't work out until later: it helps with hemming if the top channel piece is shorter - I had to do a bit of unpicking, turn it up and restitch the seams. I made a long tie that was threaded up the channel so that it just poked out at the shoulder, and sewed it into the shoulder seam in the usual steps for construction.

Ribbed jersey from Fabworks
I used a mid-weight mauve ribbed jersey from Fabworks - they have loads of great colours in this at the minute! It worked pretty well, but had more stretch than fabrics I've used with this pattern in the past. The extra stretch, combined with the fact that I may have misjudged the seam allowance markers on my (still very new-to-me) overlocker, meant that the finished thing came out pretty big. I did a LOT of taking in - I've had to take the sides in when I've made this pattern in the past, but never this much! The shoulders still sit slightly too wide, but at least it's wearable!

Pre-hemming
After all that, I very nearly ruined it at the last hurdle - the hemming. Everything I tried seemed to stretch the fabric out in an unsightly wobble. I used my walking foot and a ball point needle, tried straight stitch and stretch stitch, but still no luck. What would everyone else recommend in this situation? In the end, I had to cut off a first attempt, and do a very narrow zig zag with the walking foot, but it's still a bit wavy.

Up close
As an experiment, I'd say it's not turned out too badly overall. I definitely have a few changes that I'd try next time, the first one being to use the Fall neckband. I'd move the channel over so it sits closer to the neck - all that taking in was sucking it further and further towards the side seam - and maybe I'll go full hog and copy the split sleeves too! Colour wise, I'm not sure it's the most flattering on me, but maybe that's because I'm so used to wearing black... hopefully it will grow on me.

Worn with a recently shortened skirt I made way way back!
I'm really enjoying seeking out inspiration from the shops. Having a definite idea of what I'm creating really spurs me on, and being able to recreate something you wanted is so so satisfying! Now to go (window) shopping to seek out what's next!

Thanks Chloe and Lucy for taking snaps in the Stitch Up shop


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Winter colour

finished project
Although I'm happy with the majority of my recent makes, there's something slightly lacking.... and that's a bit of colour. I've always veered towards shades of blue/grey and plain old black, but upon reviewing my new-ish Kollabora profile, I found that there's been little (correction *no) variation in the palette for quite a while. In an attempt to remedy this, I tried out a few colourful, quick win sort of makes and thought I'd share them together in a post.

Colour! Fab photos thanks to my friend Kerry :)
Favourites first: I've made the Papercut Patterns Rise Turtleneck many times, but never tried out it's looser fitting, drop-shouldered, roll neck sister (the Fall Turtleneck) until now and I love it! I made it up in the perfect green-yellow jersey from Goldbrick Fabrics on Goldhawk Road. I often think good quality jersey is difficult to come by - recommendations welcome! - but this is lovely, and it washed really well too. If only I lived closer, I'd never be seen in black because I'd be buying a new colour every weekend! I sized down to a small as it's quite roomy and added an inch to the length of the sleeves and body.

Hand knit hat with Toft-topper!
Also snapped is a newly knitted ribbed hat from a vintage pattern. I have no patience with knitting, so this is as good as it gets for me. I was spurred on knowing that the angora-mix wool I used was a good match for my Yona coat, and by the promise of topping the finished thing with the Toft alpaca fur pompom I bought at the Knit and Stitch Show. My new hat and turtleneck are worn here with the Yona Coat, a previously unblogged Simplicity 2154 pencil skirt, and canny matching shoes and nails - clearly I've found a 'colour of the season'...

Inari in Ray Stitch gold viscose foil
And finally, I had to include what is possibly my liveliest make ever - the GOLDEN Inari Tee Dress. Thanks Karen of Did you Make That? for the super shiny dress inspiration, and signposting to some totally fabulous fabrics, one being this gold viscose foil from Ray Stitch. It sews up really well, and makes a pretty err... blinding statement garment! It's not the most flattering, but it brought me great joy wearing it, and the whole ambiguity around 'is it Christmas fancy dress?' or 'a serious outfit?' generated some great reactions at work hahaha (ho-ho-ho).
See Handmade Jane's actually amazing Studio 54-inspired top in the same fabric for some serious inspiration. 

Wishing you all a happy and colourful - and most importantly, golden - festive period!


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Papercut Patterns Waver Jacket

finished project
I nearly cried when I finished this jacket. Not because I disliked it (not even in the slightest!), or because it caused me great difficulty to make, but because it felt like such a BIG achievement. My first outdoor coat/jacket: the Waver.

My finished Waver jacket :)
Past me has been known to spend obscene amounts of money on high street jackets. And what's worse than that is the quality of many of them just doesn't justify the cost - linings that shred, pockets that tear at the touch of a set of keys (I'm looking at you French Connection...). So this was a biggie for me! The materials were well considered, to be both cost effective - well anything is if you knew what I used to spend on jackets - and able to withstand daily wear.

Waver pattern and materials good to go!
I used the same grey wax cotton and graphic-print lining fabric (both from Fabworks) that I used for my Retro Rucksack, which has seen heavy use since I made it in February and is still going strong! I also chose a yellow cord for the inside as another little nod to the yellow fabric on my bag.

Taking tailor tacking seriously
I made up the long version of the Waver with the gathered waist in a straight size Small. My measurements fell in between sizes, but after seeing the finished garment measurements and reading a few reviews, I decided to size down, which was the right decision - the fit is pretty much spot on. The prep time felt quite lengthy as there were quite a lot of pattern markings to transfer - I did proper hand-sewn tailor tacks - and quite a bit of interfacing to apply to the various pattern pieces, as well as cutting the lining out.

Quickly looking like a coat!
After the prep, the jacket came together really quickly, which was quite an exciting process. I stalled a little on topstitching the pockets in place as I forgot to buy matching thread. I added them a bit later, which helped in making sure they were properly lined up. The hood was probably my favourite bit to sew - the hood gusset pattern piece that runs down the middle gives it a real 'proper hood' shape if you know what I mean!

Seriously concentrating on putting that hood up!
I took the plunge and bought snap fastenings and the proper pliers to insert them with for a real professional finish. It seemed quite a commitment money-wise, but using the pliers was SO much easier than hammering them in place, so it was worth it. One really big disappointment was accidentally spoiling my last snap and having to buy A WHOLE new pack for just the one replacement, and they were £9.20 for 6! (If anyone knows of a cheap place to buy future hardware/snaps from, let me know!)

New tools!



There were only a few moments where I got confused - mainly around the joining the lining, which was also my main point of confusion with the Pulmu Skirt - but overall I really enjoyed making the pattern and love love LOVE the finished jacket. I'm pleased that it's both practical and very wearable, and hope that a few of the quirks make it that little bit more 'me'. In other news, Vogue posted some matching coat/bag combos on the runway at a recent Marni show, so I guess matchy-matchy must be 'on trend'. Here's my effort vs Marni's...

My not-so-Marni matchy Retro Rucksack/Waver combo
Matching at Marni
I've had the pattern queued up for quite some time. There are definitely some similarities between the Waver and the new Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak, so I'm not sure if I would've chosen differently if I was picking between the two now. I love the pockets and zip front on the Kelly, but the Waver is lined, which adds a bit of interest - as I chose such a jazzy lining! - and makes the finished thing fairly warm. Which one would you choose to sew?

Details
It took about 4 evenings to sew, which is pretty good, especially considering how long I've been working myself up to taking on a 'big project' like this. In fact, I feel just a little bit invincible when I wear it, as if now I've sewn a jacket, I could make anything (I can't, but I'm definitely trying)!

Trying to flash that lining!
I'm feeling sufficiently warmed up for sewing a proper wool winter coat now, which is next on the list. And at least I have a lovely Waver Jacket to keep me warm until then.

Thanks Sara and Chris for patiently taking pictures

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Priority sewing for the season

Named Clothing
The weather is on the turn, and I have a personal to-make list of season-appropriate clothes that is getting longer by the day/hour/minute. It doesn't help that I love cold weather clothes the most, so I decided to write a 5 project list to manage, prioritise and pressure me into making!

5 projects for winter!
1. Pulmu Skirt
Ahhhh gosh I just love the new Named collection so much, and I've just finished up my yet-to-be-blogged/photographed Pulmu High-Waisted Pencil Skirt in a heavy crepe. It's fully lined too, so I'd say it perfectly fits my seasonal requirements.

Pulmu fabrics!
2. Waver Jacket
I've had the PDF pattern since Spring, but didn't fit it into my sewing schedule before the seasons changed - I'm determined to not let the same happen again! I'm using the same lovely outer and lining fabrics that I used for my Retro Rucksack (here's hoping I can pull off matchy-matchy) and I've invested in snaps and the proper tool to insert them. This is a first for me as I've never sewn a jacket or coat before, so I've got everything crossed for it working out.

My very first jacket
3. Yona Wrap Coat (tbc)
As I mentioned in my last post, my tatty store-bought coat went in the recycling to give me the push I needed to make a replacement. I'm not sure if it's reasonably ambitious or just downright mad of me to think I'll fit both the Waver and Yona in, but I'm gonna give it a go. I brought this fab, soft, aubergine-coloured wool-mix back from the visit to Barry's at Sew Brum so it really deserves the chance to be used. (Also I'll be pretty cold if it doesn't make it to the machine)!

The picture doesn't do the deep-purple colour justice!
Think I'm set on the Yona unless anyone can sway me!
4. Inari Tee Dress
I feel like almost the only sewer who hasn't made the Inari yet! But I have a plan, and it involves jumping right in there with a hack, to (hopefully) make it similar to a dress I came across on Instagram, but in black suedette....

Instagram inspiration
In a separate make, I'm also hoping to throw some gathers into the mix to make something along the lines of this overpriced Topshop Boutique top (though in slightly less drab colours).

Shockingly expensive high street top!
5. Talvikki Sweater number 2
I love my Talvikki Sweater so much that I'm already onto a second. It's a quick sew, so should be ideal to squeeze in between some of the bigger/more challenging makes on my list. This super cool leopard print fabric stood out a mile in Barry's and was just destined to be a Talvikki. It was £11p/m so a bit pricier than I'd normally go, but if you consider the cost of a nice high street jumper then I'm onto an absolute winner.

Quite possibly my all-time fave fabric
...And now that I've got to the end of writing this, I realise that I'm planning an almost exclusively Named Clothing winter wardrobe. But the instructions, designs and fit of Named patterns are just the best, so hey, why shouldn't they be my go to pattern company? (Is this just me, or does anyone else feel the same way about Named, or maybe another pattern company?)

Extreme knitting!
In other making news, I learnt to arm knit the other day using 'EXTREME' yarn at a Stitch Up Workshop ran by Claire from Wool Couture. It was so much fun and SO fast to make up this scarf which I imagine will be worn with all the above proposed winter makes. I'd totally recommend trying it for a quick win/in-between big makes sort of project :)

Happy seasonal sewing!

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