Lilou / Self-Drafted summertime pattern hack

finished project
Without even realising it, The Magnificent Thread has just passed it's 1st birthday! I think I approach my sewing with a lot more consideration and confidence than I did a year ago. I'm not just making garments by the book (or pattern) any more. I've ventured into alterations, tricky fabrics, (and the more expensive ones that I would've been terrified to even cut into this time last year!), and of course, pattern drafting. So I think this sew is a nice one round up a year of blogging about my developing sewing skills - a Self-Drafted /Lilou hack!



I've blogged a number of makes from Tilly Walne's Love at First Stitch, including two Lilou dresses (see here and here). I love the Lilou's pleated skirt, so I decided to combine this with my self-drafted bodice, which I've used and wrote about many times. My self drafted garments are all based around a pattern/block that I made at evening classes at Leeds College of Art (which I wrote about here). I'm trying to experiment with the pattern a little each time, so for the purpose of this dress, I altered the bodice centre-front pattern piece to create a round neckline.



I also decided against sleeves for this incarnation, which meant that I got to draft my very first all-in-one facing! I worked from my original pattern pieces, testing them with my facing pieces by pinning them to a dressmaker's form, and I'm unbelievably pleased to say that it worked! It looks a bit like this when the bodice is inside out...



The all-in-one-facing creates a neat finish to both the neckline and arm holes on sleeveless garments, and it provides a bit of structure and support around these openings as it's interfaced. The process of applying an all-in-one facing can be a little bit confusing, but Dolin O'Shea's Famous Frocks: The Little Black Dress offers a great step by step 'how-to' - I'm sure there are some brilliant tutorials online too!



After making the alterations to the bodice pattern, I had to do a few tweaks to the Lilou skirt pattern pieces. I only had to move the positioning of the pleats very slightly to make them match the princess seams on my bodice. I also added 1cm to the side seams to make sure everything matched up right. Ideally I would've made the skirt longer - probably below knee length - but my fabric wasn't nearly wide enough (or long enough). I had to do some very questionable pattern placement/squeezing in just to get the dress finished.



I'm still a little unsure about the length but all in all, it's not turned out too bad - it should get some wear on holiday! And now I've just about used up the last of my Hebden Bridge Rag Market Spoils! Luckily there's another one coming up on the 16th May...



Exciting stuff and I'd definitely recommend going if you live in the area! You can find the latest details on the Facebook page. Hope to see some of you there!

Northern Soul inspired sew

finished project
I got to spend a lovely few days in Manchester and Liverpool doing fun things last week. This obviously required a new dress - a second, and again, slightly modified Megan dress from Tilly Walne's Love at First Stitch.



I bought the fabric quite a while ago with the Megan in mind. To be honest, I don't normally wear white. In fact, I avoid buying pale coloured clothes and fabric all together so I don't have to put a white wash on (ha!). I just had one of the moments in the fabric shop where you just picture an amazing version of a pattern coming to life. It's a poly cotton with a slight bit of stretch to it, and like my last Megan, that stretch and movement really helps the fit. 



I had a bit of help inspiration-wise from a cinema trip to see Northern Soul. It really captures the sounds, styles and fashions of the era, and spurred me on to finally get this dress made!



The dress took no time at all to whip up. I'd made a few tweaks last time and stuck with these. There's an extra inch added to lengthen the bodice/stop those tucks getting lost under my bust just like before. This time I also took a centimetre off the centre back too. I've been doing a pattern drafting course in the evenings at art college, and it's helped me to realise that the amount of fabric I need at the back is significantly smaller than what I need to cover my front (Light bulb moment!).



I'm really pleased with the overall fit - it's probably a bit better and more comfortable than version 1. Also, of course, there's the added collar. Last time I drafted a Peter Pan collar, but this one definitely called for the pointed contrast collar. I based this one on the wonderful Emery collar that I can't stop swooning over!



I'm so pleased with the dress that I think I'm going to have to make more pale garments to make the white wash worth it! The polka dots and collar have just the right amount of impact. I'll be wearing this one as a day dress and for going out too!


I made a Mimi!

finished project

As promised, here it is: I finally made a Mimi! I actually finished it off last week but I've been quite slow on getting this posted. I was also a bit unsure as to whether I liked the finished blouse at first - it's just SO FEMININE. But then I am female, and I was the one who chose to make the very pretty Love at First Stitch blouse, in a very pretty floral fabric.



I went to the fabric shop with the Mimi in mind, and it just sort of happened. I don't really say no to a very cheap viscose with a decent drape. I gravitated towards the lovely print, and in the week between finishing the blouse and posting about it, I think I've come round to the whole girly-loveliness of it.



If you've made any of Tilly's patterns before then you'll know how great they are, and if you've read my blog before, you'll know how much I go on about them! Well the Mimi is no different. In fact, I found it more useful as a way to exercise and improve certain techniques. It had a few more pattern pieces than I was anticipating, but that's just down to yoke and a few facing pieces. All of these help to create a super neat finish to the blouse.



Speaking of practicing techniques, oooo la laa, just LOOK at my French seams!  What a lovely finish and very easy to do, I think I might try the Frenchies out more often. 



I also got to do my first button holes since secondary school - it's still quite a big deal having a sewing machine with the capability to actually do things! I'd never used a snazzy automatic button hole foot before - I'm sure everyone else has been using them for years. You secure your button in the back and it automatically adjusts to sew a button hole that is the perfect size -MIND BLOWN! I'm glad I did a few practice runs though, as it didn't always get on with my cheapy-cheap viscose. 



Anyway, it all worked out in the end, so taaa daaaa! I have a hand-made button up blouse. All I had to do was put my Dr Martens on and all my gender-related worries were balanced out. 



If I was to make the Mimi again, I'd just make some minor adjustments to the shoulders, which turned out just a bit too wide for me. I cut the size to fit my (rather large bust) without considering what effect this might have on the rest of the blouse. Not very savvy sewing/sizing there! But now I feel much more confident in approaching other patterns for blouses/shirts. I have a vintage shirt pattern and some Liberty fabric that a friend bought me for my birthday, and I think that might have just jumped up my sewing queue...



A Modified Megan

finished project
In between hen dos, birthdays, weddings and babies (it's been a busy month!) something very exciting happened... I got a new sewing machine! I've been looking for the right one for a while, and I've finally upgraded from my little Janome half size to a grown up Janome model, much more appropriate for the amount of dressmaking I do.  


Having just finished my first project on the new and improved machine, I can't quite believe how I managed with the half size DMX100 Petite for so long. I'd recommend it for small crafts/bunting/etc, but the new machine is so much better for more complex projects. I feel like my sewing skills have improved no end - the things that technology can do eh?

A new machine called for some fancy fabrics. I bought these two in the John Lewis clearance, and although they weren't that cheap by my standards, it was totally worth it for the quality. The top one is called 'Modern Animal' - ooo-er. It's a 97% cotton, 3% spandex mix and absolutely perfect for making the Megan dress from Tilly Walne's Love at First Stitch. 


Using an unfamiliar machine and such lovely fabric meant that I couldn't really get away with not making a muslin. If you read my earlier posts, you'll probably know that I haven't got a lot of patience for that sort of thing, despite having a ridiculously out of proportion bust measurement that usually requires some sort of adjustment. I'm quite glad I made a muslin in the end, as I did have to make some small changes. The dart tucks under the bust actually work really well, but on me they sort of got lost in the wilderness of the under boob - see unflattering picture below, not great! - so I added an inch to the length of the bodice, bringing them a little bit closer to my waist.


The machine came with loads of different feet, I actually had to consult the instruction book to work out what I was doing! Once I'd got my bearings though, it was pretty simple. And I've now got the best finished seams around, thanks to the overcasting foot, which is pretty amazing! It lets you run a zig zag stitch right at the edge, and has a little notch to guide you down the fabric. I'd say this is the best way to finish a seam if you haven't got an overlocker - I haven't stepped up my game quite that much yet. 


My housemate suggested I modify the Megan dress to make it a bit more 'me' by adding a collar. There were times in the making where I wish I hadn't done this, but now it's finished I'm really glad I did. I drafted a peter pan shaped collar pattern which was roughly based on the Elegant Musings one that I spoke about here. I then basted it in place at the neckline, and sandwiched it between the facing. The fabric is pretty thick anyway, so no need to interface the collar. I was worried about the extra bulk, but some clever grading just about sorted it out. 


I had quite a big issue with fit when it came round to inserting the zip. I think it was in partly down to the fabric having a little bit of stretch, but really it was just a bit too big. Much to my despair, I had to spend an evening unpicking my beautifully inserted concealed zip - first one with a zipper foot too! - and cutting a good couple of inches off  at the centre back seam. The collar caused me great annoyance in this too as it ended up being too long for the corrected back seam. I ended up having to cut a fair bit off of that too, finishing it by folding the raw edges in and top stitching it closed.


I was very determined with this one though, and once I had the zip back in, I just knew I'd got the fit spot on. It was definitely worth the effort. The final push was setting in the sleeves. They have little gathers on the top, which made it a little bit tricky to sew, but definitely not unmanageable. I think they absolutely make the dress too, I love them.


And so finally, here's what I'm going to class as my first venture in to real-life, adult sewing machine, dressmaker territory: my finished, and slightly modified Megan Dress.



I've sang the praises of Tilly's patterns before, and the only difference with this one is that I probably love it a little bit more! This is the sort of dress that I want to wear all the time - when I'm at work, when I'm out for drinks - it's just fab. I'd recommend it for anyone, from beginner level to the advanced sewist, and as a bonus, it actually takes very little fabric - I have loads of this John Lewis stuff leftover to stash, which is definitely not a bad thing as I am very fond of it!

Next up, and still working my way through Love at First Stitch, is the one I've wanted to make for ages, and that is the Mimi blouse. Bring on the button holes!





Little Red Lilou

FBA
June was been a bit quiet on the sewing front, but that's because everything else has been so busy! I've still somehow managed to stockpile fabric and patterns though. My sewing to-do list is going to be longer than the silly amounts of denim I accidentally buy! In between all the work, newborn babies, hen dos and birthdays I did manage to squeeze in a second Lilou - the Little Red Lilou!


I was pretty pleased with how the first version turned out - it's had a fair few wears already and has even survived the washing machine, hooray! - but this time I really worked on getting the fit just right. There was a fair bit of patience involved in comparison to my usual 'cut fabric, sew, hope it works' method. After doing my VERY FIRST full bust adjustment and making a muslin of the bodice, I got to make the REAL thing...

This time I used a bright red polyester crepe with loads of drape. I couldn't recommend the drapey-crepe any more - mine was about £4 per metre from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Kirkgate Market. It was a little bit more difficult to cut and handle than the cotton I used last time, but SO worth it. Just look how well the pleats hang! I couldn't resist making the scalloped version again, though I struggled to get the scallops to turn out quite as deep in the poly-crepe. Still, I think they look alright, it's just more of a 'shallow-wiggle' neckline.

The one thing I didn't quite account for when doing the FBA was the slight increase in the waist measurement. All in all it's not too bad - everyone needs a bit of breathing/lunch room after all. Anyway, I'm getting so close to the perfect fit now, I guess I'll just have to make another - if I'm not careful it will end up becoming my uniform!


I have a few plans for a slightly different future version... I'd love to have a go at making the Lilou with a slash/boat neckline at the front. The contrast with the low back would be a simple but pretty cool look. I'm going to have to test it out, but just wondered if anyone has done a similar pattern hack before? Any tips would be much appreciated!!

Oh and here's one more thing that should help with garment fitting/pattern adjusting...


My house mate bought me THE BEST BIRTHDAY PRESENT - dress maker's dummy! The rest of July is going to be dedicated to some serious sewing and fitting :) I have more Love at First Stitch patterns to make - definitely need a Mimi blouse in my wardrobe - and next up I'll be prepping to make the Simple Sew Lottie blouse pattern that came free with the latest Love Sewing magazine. A new sewing machine might even be on the cards...

Super Scalloped Lilou

DIY
My shiny new copy of Love at First Stitch and the bargain fabric I wrote about it my last post have been keeping me super busy this week!


Pins and scissors ready, I jumped straight into making the lovely Lilou dress so I could have it ready to take on my holiday. The stripe fabric I used is a lightweight cotton - pretty good for what is officially my first me-made summer dress!

I love scalloped edges. I seem to spot lovely scalloped-detailed garments in shops like Hobbs all the time, but then I always have the 'Ohhh can I justify spending this much..?' debate. So I was thrilled to see that one of Tilly's suggested variations for the Lilou dress was to make a scalloped neckline.


Tilly provides step-by-step instructions on how to add the scallops to your pattern. I knew that tin of Savers kidney beans would come in handy at some point! (Product placement at its best - other tins are available). I traced around the tin so mine would be bold and deep. The construction part is SO simple - I think my wardrobe will be full of scalloped edges and trims soon!


Love at First Stitch is great because it gives you the confidence to try out these tricks and techniques that you've long-admired, but not quite plucked up the guts to actually do. Sometimes - especially for the not so confident sewist - it's easy to get caught up in sticking to the pattern and following the 'rules'. The book encourages you the reader/maker to 'make it your own' throughout, and that's something I love - even more of that 'I did it myself!' feeling when you've done.


I cut a straight size 3, and like A Stitching Odyssey, I reduced my seam allowance to 1cm near the bust to avoid the dreaded FBA. In hindsight, I probably should have re-positioned the bust dart as everything's looking a bit pointy around there - but hey, maybe I wanted everyone to think that I'm wearing Madonna-style Gaultier underwear...

One thing I did do was take in the shoulder seams a little to stop a bit of gaping in the back. I'd probably take a centimetre off the shoulders on the pattern next time, just to get the right fit for me.



And it's done! I'm not sure I'd win any prizes if you inspected the finish up close, but that's my fault for making a few mistakes and being too lazy to fix them. The waist seam at the back doesn't quite match at either side of the zip - it's just a few millimetres out - and not all of my skirt pleats meet the darts on the bodice where they should. But I think you'd only notice these things if you were told (whoops, there I go giving away my secrets!) By placing the horizontal stripes on the bodice and vertical stripes on the skirt, I will hopefully confuse the onlooker's eyes so they don't see them anyway - definitely the intention.


The whole dress has cost me less than £5 to make, and I'd say that the quality is a fair bit better than a cheap dress from the high street. The lined bodice gives it a particularly nice, neat finish - hiding away all the raw edges and dodgy bits! I haven't lined a garment since I did my A Levels, so it was a really useful reminder/practice.


The Lilou dress might well become my new wardrobe staple. It's so simple, but at the same time, the results are really pretty - it proves that you don't need to put a bow of distraction on top of everything *cough cough*. You only need 2 metres of your main fabric for the dress itself, (0.5 of your lining fabric) so I definitely plan on having a snoop in the fabric shop and investing in something a bit fancier.
Some ideas:

  1. A chintzy floral Lilou, maybe with a longer length skirt and regular neckline
  2. A medium-weight quality black fabric LBL (Little Black Lilou)
  3. A bold, block-coloured Lilou -  I'm thinking green or red
Here is a quick view of the back of the dress too. Eagle-eyed readers may spot some slightly out stitching, but oh well!


So it looks like me and the Lilou pattern are going to become very well acquainted. I'm also keen to try out the Mimi blouse. But for now, I'm signing off and putting down the needle and thread. It's mere HOURS until I leave to go on holiday, and as I'm heading to a music festival, I just had to see if the Lilou has the moves...


...OH YES IT DOES. Adiós!

Fabric Pilgrimage

dressmaking
I went on a trip to London last weekend. I don't know if you could quite call it a fabric pilgrimage as there were alternative motives for the visit, but I did travel via Megabus, and then caught the tube to the end of the Victoria line - and it was HOT! - so it was a mission of sorts. But when my friend suggested it, I just couldn't turn down a trip to the quite unexpected fabric haven of Walthamstow. I'd heard good things, and it's also listed on Tilly and the Buttons as a London fabric hot spot. Anyway it didn't disappoint - bargainous fabric galore!


The high street is home to an unbelievable number of fabric shops and there are many more fabric/craft/haberdashery traders to be found on the stalls of the outdoor market, which runs down the same road. It's brilliantly overwhelming. 


These pictures are from just one of the many shops. I'm not entirely sure how they can even make profit on £1 and £2 a metre fabrics - but hey, I'm not complaining! For once, could it be possible that London was CHEAPER than the North?! I have to note that not all of the fabric was great quality and it does require a fair bit of rummaging. But if, like me, you're not after anything too fancy or you just want to buy a bundle of 'practice' fabric, then you can't beat it! You'll probably even spot a few familiar prints if you still frequent the bigger high street shops - there were definitely a few fabrics I recognised from a recent trip to Primark.



I went home with 4 metres of the nautical looking blue/white/yellow stripe fabric (priced at £1 per m) and a couple of metres of the lilac flowery (still only £2 per m). Me and my purse are very happy!

So now, and in other news, how am I going to put it to use?
Well I also had a very good post day. A little bit late to the party I know, but I finally caught up and bought Love at First Stitch, the first book by (as mentioned earlier) sewist, blogger, GBSB contestant and all round, super stylish Tilly Walnes.


The beautifully designed book has seven different patterns and easy to follow guides and tutorials that take you from complete novice to proud, confident sewist. The thing I really like about the patterns are Tilly's suggestions of simple changes that make different variations of the garments. Do you remember when Gok Wan was all into that capsule wardrobe of twenty pieces or something? No? Well I do... and it's like that, only so much better. There are so many options that you could probably make them all and spend a month (or a Me Made May) hardly wearing the same combo twice!


I knew which projects I wanted to make before I'd even opened the book. I'm going to use my bargain blue stripey cotton to make a nautical-chic summer Lilou dress - I'm thinking the scalloped neckline variation...


And I have just enough of the lilac flowery to make a pretty Mimi blouse, maybe with a contrast white collar. This one will be on hold for a while until I get a new sewing machine that can handle button holes - though Tasha from By Gum, By Golly has a handy tutorial on making them by hand here for anyone who is patient enough (sorry not me!)

A good week for sewing. Must get going if I want the Lilou to be finished before my holidays!

Thanks for visiting!

Thanks for visiting!