A Parisian Paper Theory Olya Shirt Dress

fabric shopping
After making the Paper Theory Olya Shirt in March, I vowed to make it again in a block colour to really show off the outrageously good construction/style lines... but it's just so hard to keep a word when the perfect fabric presents itself! 

Olya Shirt Dress
I at least half followed through on my promise to this fantastic pattern, this time making the dress version. Whilst I like my previous Olya Shirt, and had the most fun making it, it hasn't seen as much wear as I would've liked, in part because I just don't really wear shirts! I haven't seen as many people make the lengthened Olya Shirt Dress, but for me, it hands-down tops the shirt, with absolutely perfect proportions. 

Sacrés Coupons on Rue d'Orsel
Now let's talk fabric. This viscose twill is arguably one of my best fabric buys of all time and it's purchase perfectly rounded off the best long weekend spent with fellow sewists in Paris for #parissewcial. Jess, Roz and I were lucky enough that our cheap-Eurostar-deal hotel was located almost at the foot of the steps to the Sacré-Cœur, and even luckier still that it was in the centre of the local fabric district. Housed at the end of our street on Rue d'Orsel was my favourite of the bunch, Sacrés Coupons.

Lovely #Parissewcial crowd! Thank you Charlotte and Carmen for organising the best weekend!
Most of the fabric shops sold pre-cut 3m lengths, and it was often a case of digging through the mountains of fabric available. I was particularly reserved, only buying fabric I considered to be different to that I could get at home. For me, the unusual graphic and abstract prints are the rarest of fabric finds, so I was very lucky to grab a 3m length of this crazy printed viscose on our final morning (we ducked in Sacrés Coupons as the shutters opened, whilst on our way to catch the Eurostar home)! 

The last fabric in my case definitely demanded to be the first one sewn, and the weight and drape seemed perfect for an Olya Shirt Dress. It's definitely lighter than my previous shirt version, plus I used extra light interfacing for the placket/cuffs/collar and it's much improved - is it just me who stills struggles to pick the right interfacing for a project?

Front details
The most exciting sleeve/yoke detailing
Whilst the pattern of the fabric might detract from some of the garment's design details, it does make them even more exciting at close inspection. I talked all about the cool construction in my previous review, but I have to say, I still can't get over the wonder that is the sleeve/yoke square seam.


One big change I made this time was to entirely eliminate the breast pockets. Whilst their design is no doubt excellent, I found the pockets on my last version just didn't sit right across my fairly full bust - I ended up stitching them closed as they gaped during wear. I still stuck with the topstitching detail along the yoke, and I think overall it's made for a much neater wear/finish for me!

Back view
The length is great and really balances out the full sleeves - I'd even consider adding another inch or two to future versions. I'm also all for a skirt side split - I even skipped the bottom button to have a bit more movement in the front too (risqué)! 


I feel like I'm really gushing now, but this absolutely my dress of the summer and currently feels like my dress of full-hearted happiness. It was created in a lovely calm week off work, sewing at a slow pace, and the fabric holds memories of a dear weekend in one of my favourite cities, with my inspirational internet friends, new and old.


I fully recommend a viscose for the Shirt Dress as this has been the perfect pattern/fabric pairing. Now to commit to making a plain version, maybe in a very basic black or khaki viscose... one day! I have another piece of Parisian patterned viscose earmarked for the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit next!

P.S. You may have also noticed, I got new hair, which somehow seems to improve all my outfits! My hairdresser works actual wonders!


 Stay in touch!

The Good Grab Bin Buying Guide ft. the True Bias Nikko

fabric buying
Can you make a bad fabric good? When I'm not sewing leftovers, I'm a keen rescuer of the questionable fabrics that I'm sometimes drawn to - mainly the grab bin variety. This textured black velour is a prime example of one of those weird need to haves. It's sort of ugly and full of imperfections, but something about it just begged to be liberated from the bottom of the pile in Manchester Abakhan. A luxe True Bias Nikko Dress sprung to mind, working with the vertical stripe texture of the velour.

Luxe True Bias Nikko Dress in bargain garb bin velour
When I pulled the length of fabric from the grab bin, I realised that the stripe (and with it, the main stretch) ran horizontally rather than vertically as I'd hoped. It had a few faults too, where the texture looked squashed out of shape. Whilst I'm not one to promote over buying, in some cases it's good to have spare fabric, particularly if you're buying 'seconds' or worried about quality. In this case, I took home just over 3m for £8 - enough to 'work around' the dodgy bits and to try something else if my plans for a vertical stripe Nikko were scuppered by the stretch. 


I used the fabric stretch guide on the Nikko, and although it didn't quite reach the recommended 75% (it was probably closer to 50%), I thought it was worth the risk of cutting on the cross grain. As with my previous Nikko, I cut a size 6, grading to a 2 at the waist and out to a 4 again at the hips. Knowing there would be tears if I couldn't fit it over my head (this has definitely happened before with some of my Nikko Tops made from stretchier fabric!) I cut the neckband on the less-risky straight grain, meaning the stripes run horizontally. 

Side shot
Back view
In the end, I found that the fabric had enough stretch to fit (I was a bit worried it would turn out tiny!). It was actually the lack of bounce back/recovery that presented more of an issue in getting the right fit. I had to take the dress in a couple of times to get the perfect comfortable-yet-close fit around the waist and hips. 


This is a pattern is so made for tall makers - something I already knew about from last time. The weight of the velour seemed to make this version look even longer. I took 3" from the length and took the side split up by 3" too, though I'd be tempted to take the split up a little further next time.

Spot the fabric faults!
In all I'm really pleased with how this Nikko turned out - definitely my best version yet! I didn't totally manage to miss the imperfections of the fabric - something the eagle-eyed amongst you may have spotted - but I think this sort of adds to the charm of it. It fits well, it's made to a higher standard than most high street garments, so who cares if there are a few dodgy creases here and there? After making it, I realised that Anthropologie are stocking loads of RTW clothes in similar fabrics at the minute - 'on trend' at a cost of about a twentieth of the price of the average Anthro dress can only be a winner.

I've always been quite restrained in my fabric buying, but even more so recently. Despite the low price of this length of fabric, I asked myself a lot of questions before committing to buying it. Here's a little guide for good grab bin buying for anyone else who feels like they need to check themselves before sticking the bargains in their basket:


I'm really interested to hear people's thoughts on this. Do you find it easy to be restrained when bargains present themselves, or are you the first to put them in your basket?

Feeling luxe and fancy in my <£5 dress
I always knew I would have some leftovers, but cutting this project on the cross grain meant that I used much less fabric than anticipated. It gives quite a basic dress a real luxurious feel to it - I even wore this dress to my friend's wedding last week! Party season is almost upon us, so this is definitely something I'm hoping to replicate with the leftovers, in either a pair of wide leg trousers or even a jumpsuit at a push! Bring on the #sewingleftovers!

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Rag Rich: Ready to Sew Jazz Jumpsuit on holiday

fabric shopping
I can't believe this fabric could have ever been considered a 'rag'. Perhaps it wasn't quite to the seller's taste? Whatever the reason, I'm thankful that it made it's way to the Spring Hebden Bridge Rag Market, and that no one else swiped it up before me, as it's made for the perfect Ready to Sew Jazz Jumpsuit!

Ready to Sew Jazz
I've made up the jumpsuit version of the Jazz (it can also be made as a dress or playsuit) a couple of times, first as a tester with a similar cotton-mix fabric and the second time in a slightly more luxurious crepe - essentially anything with a nice drape works well! When I saw that the weather was going to be nice in Berlin the week before we went, it called for a bit of emergency summer sewing. I was between making the Jazz and the In the Folds Peppermint Jumpsuit in this fabric, but I was sort of lazy in going with the TNT pattern in the end. (I'd love to hear people's thoughts on the Peppermint Jumpsuit though! What are those bust darts like for those of you who are a bit fuller chested)?

On holiday in a much sunnier Berlin
I'm not really a fan of holiday panic-sewing, but the Jazz is a fun and fairly quick to make project, and based on the others in my wardrobe, I knew I'd get good wear out of it through the summer. I haven't got much to say about the construction that I didn't already say the first time around. I always have a great experience sewing up Ready to Sew patterns and the Jazz is no exception.

Back view, with a slightly closer fit
The only change I made this time was in my sizing. Whilst the Jazz isn't particularly fitted, my previous two look just a bit too oversized now, so I dropped a couple of sizes to a 38. The fit is still comfortable and roomy, but without as much excess fabric, particularly in the bodice and around the waist, which I like to wear belted in anyway.


I'm glad I managed to make use of this amazing fabric straight away rather than it languishing in the stash forever. The print and colour of it make this Jazz a little bit bolder than I'd usually go, but in a good way (I think?) and it was definitely the stand-out piece in my holiday wardrobe! I had the added 'pressure' of beginning Me Made May from on holiday this year, but it wasn't too difficult as the only RTW thing packed was the yellow shirt in the picture below.

A mostly handmade holiday wardrobe!
We had a lovely break filled with nice (mostly vegan) food, drinks and a big street party to celebrate May Day. Of course I had to Google 'fabric shops in Berlin' and was pleasantly surprised with how many popped up on the map - making an even better destination for a sewer on a city break! I dragged us to a Stoff & Stil, which was pretty exciting as I've only ever bought from them online before. I was actually overwhelmed with choice, so only came away with one piece of double gauze (which is cut and ready to become a shirt very soon), but it was great to see their fabric quality is as good as the designs across the board! It definitely gives me more confidence in ordering online with them in future.

We'll definitely be going back to Berlin - probably with a Jazz jumpsuit in tow should the weather permit! Are there any other fabric shopping spots I should look out for next time?

Stay in touch!


Tokyo's Textile Highlights!

fabric haul
Hi all! I had an amazing afternoon of fabric shopping in Tokyo on our recent trip to Japan. To round off a series of posts about handmade in Japan, I thought that my fellow dressmakers might like to see a couple of my Tokyo textile highlights, including my modest but much loved fabric haul from fabric super store Tomato!

In textile town!
Where?

Tomato can be found in Nippori, which is also known as Textile Town (my kind of place)! I'd done a bit of research prior to travelling out there as I didn't want to bore my fellow non-fabric-loving travellers with hours of trawling, and I'd heard Tomato was 'THE ONE'. Well there are actually 3 Tomato stores (as well as many other fabric shops) on the same road. One seemed to specialise in curtain/upholstery fabric, one looked like the 'bargain' shop, but the best of them all had (I think) 6 floors of AMAZING choice and that's where my haul came from.

Tomato haul!

What to buy?

It was so hard to pick the right balance of fabrics that are both unusual or hard to find in the UK, but would still make into wearable garments for the climate back at home. I went with some loose projects in mind, but that all went out of the window when I saw how much there was to choose from.

Browsing the Nani Iro
I'm sure many of you would have loved the fabulous selection of Nani Iro fabrics that you can see me browsing here. And I'm sure many of you will think I'm absolutely crazy for bypassing the lot! It was hard to not be inspired by the soft and breathable cottons used for many of the chicest Japanese summer garments. In fact, I loved making this Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt in Atelier Brunette double gauze just before going on holiday, but we don't get much 30 degree+ heat at home, which for me, is what it seems most suited to.

Browsing but not buying!
The jersey floor had the widest colour selection I've ever seen. I always find that good quality jersey in the best colours is quite hard to come by at home, but I would've been there all day trying to pick, so I gave it a miss, more for the sake of my wonderfully patient boyfriend who was waiting for me outside.  

Cost

It's probably worth noting that none of the fabric on offer was particularly cheap. Each of the fabrics I bought cost on average around 1,500 Yen p/m which worked out at about £10 p/m with the exchange rate at the time I was there. On the plus side, the choice and quality well exceeded anything I've ever seen at home, plus I'd budgeted a huge chunk of holiday money for fabric, so I'd say it was entirely worth it! It's also worth noting that the Nani Iro did work out much cheaper to buy in Japan than it would at home!

What did I buy?

My selection!
With no real projects in mind at the time of buying these four fabrics, I went for a stab in the dark 2 metres of each (which I'm sure I'll live to regret when I find the perfect pattern requires 2.5m...). Here's a closer look:



This textured crepe is one of the most vibrant mustards I've ever seen, and I love mustard. It's a mid weight and is destined for a Ready to Sew Jane Shirt with Jazz Jumpsuit sleeves (see the Ready to Sew blog for pattern updates that make the mash up possible)!


I have absolutely no idea what to make with this swirly print poly. I'd expected to see more geometric-style prints, but this one was shelved with the more traditional oriental prints and seemed to bridge a bit of a gap between the two for me. It's mid weight with an amazing drape - suggestions welcome!



I very rarely wear white, and this might seem a really boring purchase to some, but I promise this mid/heavy weight cotton has the most amazing texture! On the day I bought this, I saw a Japanese woman wearing the perfect oversized white shirt, open and layered like a jacket, and it was made from something similar. I'm desperate to make my own version and on the look out of an oversized shirt pattern - I'm thinking something like the Simplicity 8340, but again, any recommendations are welcome!



And finally, this beautifully vibrant oriental-print poly, which I love deeply, but it was always destined to be a gift for my mum who has just started sewing (hi mum)! I think it would make a great True Bias Sutton Blouse, but the choice is all hers :)

And in other textile highlights...

As I've mentioned a couple of times, the fashions over in Japan were so inspiring. Nearly everyone is impeccably dressed and looks chic at all times, in all weathers. I caught a few candid snaps in the Instagram post below, but the level of style really has to be seen to be believed.

A post shared by Shauni S (@shaunimagnifique) on

Finally, I absolutely loved that the (GIANT) Muji in Shibuya had an in-house 'customize studio' where you can personalise the things you buy with embroidery, printing or engraving. I was desperate to try it for the novelty, so I got my name and a lucky cat embroidered on a mini tote and I'm pretty thrilled with it! If only we had one of these at home. (Errr maybe I should be looking at upgrading my machine big time for embroidery purposes...)


I'm sure my textile experiences in Tokyo are only just touching the very surface, but I wanted to show you what I got up to! I'm sure we'll be returning to Tokyo at some point so if you have your own highlights then I'd love to hear them!

Stay in touch!

Fabric shopping and Me Made in Amsterdam

Amsterdam
Having just got back from a trip to Amsterdam, I thought I'd share a bit about an obviously very exciting thing when you go to a different city - the fabric shops! I saw some of the most beautiful, unusual and specialist fabrics that I've ever seen. In fact, I was completely overwhelmed... so much so that I couldn't pick anything to actually buy. So this is by no means a comprehensive guide, but more of a reminder for myself to not get so overwhelmed and BUY SOME FABRIC next time!

Beautiful sari and dress fabrics
Most of the shops I went to were based in and along the Albert Cuyp Market which the lovely Laura recommended to me via Twitter. The market sells a bit of everything, but as you walk along it, the fabric stalls and shops start to appear. Above and below are pictures I took of some of the most exciting fabrics I saw - the sort that I almost couldn't bear to cut into!

Insane feathered fabric!
Nanucci Tessuti
Nanucci Tessuti  is along the market road and had some BEAUTIFUL designer fabrics - though they were a bit out of my price range.

The one I should've bought!

The absolute gem of Amsterdam has to be A.Boeken - it is by far the best stocked haberdashery and fabric shop I have ever visited. The amount of trims, notions, tools and fabrics, was again, absolutely overwhelming - I felt like a child in a toy shop!

A Boken - one of the best haberdasheries ever
The fabric range is massive and pushed way past the 'norm'. It obviously wasn't for sewing, but they even had a wall of multi-coloured latex that you could buy off the roll/by the sheet - very Amsterdam!

Something a bit different...

And for those who favour working with yarns, there's Stephen & Penelope right next door. If anyone's visited Loop in London, I'd say it's quite similar.

And for the knitters out there
The only thing I found difficult to spot in all of the fabric shops, were nice, drapey viscose or crepes. Of course, all of the specialist fabrics more than make up for a slight lack of those for everyday wear!

Me made in Amsterdam

I think I've got my 'hand luggage only' packing down to a fine art now. I wore mostly me-made clothes whilst away, mixed in with a few other bits. Here's my much worn but as of yet un-blogged Kielo Wrap Dress - I wrote about the first one here.

Rudie toilets in a disco-cocktail bar that had a resident cat (!)
My overalls/casual trousers got the most wear (two outfts in one there!). You can make your own using the overall tutorial here.


And you may have already seen my last post about my casual trouser to culotte pattern hack. Well here they are again - I just had to get a picture in that was typically Amsterdam: bikes, bridge, flowers, canal.

Culottes in Amsterdam
I would love to hear from anyone else who's been fabric shopping in Amsterdam? Unlike me, did you manage to bring anything back?!



Stay in touch!

Fabric Pilgrimage

dressmaking
I went on a trip to London last weekend. I don't know if you could quite call it a fabric pilgrimage as there were alternative motives for the visit, but I did travel via Megabus, and then caught the tube to the end of the Victoria line - and it was HOT! - so it was a mission of sorts. But when my friend suggested it, I just couldn't turn down a trip to the quite unexpected fabric haven of Walthamstow. I'd heard good things, and it's also listed on Tilly and the Buttons as a London fabric hot spot. Anyway it didn't disappoint - bargainous fabric galore!


The high street is home to an unbelievable number of fabric shops and there are many more fabric/craft/haberdashery traders to be found on the stalls of the outdoor market, which runs down the same road. It's brilliantly overwhelming. 


These pictures are from just one of the many shops. I'm not entirely sure how they can even make profit on £1 and £2 a metre fabrics - but hey, I'm not complaining! For once, could it be possible that London was CHEAPER than the North?! I have to note that not all of the fabric was great quality and it does require a fair bit of rummaging. But if, like me, you're not after anything too fancy or you just want to buy a bundle of 'practice' fabric, then you can't beat it! You'll probably even spot a few familiar prints if you still frequent the bigger high street shops - there were definitely a few fabrics I recognised from a recent trip to Primark.



I went home with 4 metres of the nautical looking blue/white/yellow stripe fabric (priced at £1 per m) and a couple of metres of the lilac flowery (still only £2 per m). Me and my purse are very happy!

So now, and in other news, how am I going to put it to use?
Well I also had a very good post day. A little bit late to the party I know, but I finally caught up and bought Love at First Stitch, the first book by (as mentioned earlier) sewist, blogger, GBSB contestant and all round, super stylish Tilly Walnes.


The beautifully designed book has seven different patterns and easy to follow guides and tutorials that take you from complete novice to proud, confident sewist. The thing I really like about the patterns are Tilly's suggestions of simple changes that make different variations of the garments. Do you remember when Gok Wan was all into that capsule wardrobe of twenty pieces or something? No? Well I do... and it's like that, only so much better. There are so many options that you could probably make them all and spend a month (or a Me Made May) hardly wearing the same combo twice!


I knew which projects I wanted to make before I'd even opened the book. I'm going to use my bargain blue stripey cotton to make a nautical-chic summer Lilou dress - I'm thinking the scalloped neckline variation...


And I have just enough of the lilac flowery to make a pretty Mimi blouse, maybe with a contrast white collar. This one will be on hold for a while until I get a new sewing machine that can handle button holes - though Tasha from By Gum, By Golly has a handy tutorial on making them by hand here for anyone who is patient enough (sorry not me!)

A good week for sewing. Must get going if I want the Lilou to be finished before my holidays!

Thanks for visiting!

Thanks for visiting!