Sewing Leftovers: Community Inspiration!

#sewingleftovers
Hi all! I'm seeing a real shift in makers working towards being more sustainable, and #sewingleftovers is just one small initiative amongst the many, so thanks to anyone who has shown interest and to those of you who have taken the time to join in! Speaking of those of you who've joined in, the response has been phenomenal with over 400 posts using #sewingleftovers shared on Instagram in the small amount of time it's been out in the world! I thought it was definitely time to do a round up based on some of the fantastic shares and suggestions offered up by the community, so here we go...

Patterns
Links to all patterns and original posts can be found below
Of course, the patterns we choose for our leftovers can be limited or determined by the amount of fabric we have - leftovers can be anything from tiny scraps to huge chunks - but here are some of my favourite makes from patterns that work with limited lengths.

1. Marilla Walker Maya Top by @heritageninja
2. Workroom Social Tate Top  (FREE pattern!) by @ofchemists
3. Grainline Studio Willow Tank by @sixyardsunder
4. True Bias Lander Shorts by @craftwerking
5. Kitschy Coo Barrie Briefs by @susanna_and_katyarose
6. Named Clothing Inari Tee by @projekt.kleiderschrank
7. République du Chiffon Juliette Shirt by @mariasyrgrejer


Accessories
Links to all patterns/original posts can be found below
I looked at uses of pleather in my last plans/inspiration post, mainly with bags in mind, so here are some more bags and accessories suited to different kinds of leftovers. Thanks to Sam and Natasha for recommending the perfect patterns to remedy my need for a circle bag - question is, which one do I try first?!

1. Circle handbag from Love Sewing Magazine issue 48 (recommended by Sam)
2. Noodlehead Wool and Wax Tote by @michelleofatime
3. Sarah Kirsten Fennel Fanny Pack by @wellfibre (and suggested by Craftwerk)
4. Kylie and the Machine Ida Clutch by me! (A shameless plug but I love it so much and it's getting so much use - you can see my blog post about it here)
5. Carolyn Friedlander Nest Egg Tote (recommended by Natasha)
6. Headband and tutorial to make your own by @thegirlwhomakes


Mix and match
Links to all patterns and original posts can be found below
Because we can't always have the perfect big chunk of fabric left at the end of each project! Here's some inspiration for trying to incorporate those smaller leftovers into a new make, and a bunch of patchwork patterns that will do the work for you!

1. Papercut Patterns Kyoto Tee hack by @sewuthinkucan
2. Ready to Sew Juliette Skirt by @io_e_carlotta
3. Pretty panelled top by @lejditea
4. Style Arc Quinn Woven Top by @cookinandcraftin - Meg wrote a great blog post on this make here
5. Melissa Watson for Palmer/Pletsch M7132 Patchwork Kimono Jacket Pattern
6 & 7. Blueprints for Sewing Geodesic Pullover and A Frame Skirt (recommneded by Barbara)


And if you needed any more inspiration:

 Listen to Love to Sew Episode 42, 'Sustainability and Sewing Part 2' - #sewingleftovers gets a mention alongside tonnes of other community-sourced bits of wisdom, projects and inspiration! Thanks Helen and Caroline!

 Watch Craftwerk explore sustainability in sewing practice and question 'who made my fabric?' and offer some great stash busting suggestions in her vlogs.

 Check out these incredible patchwork jeans by @mariasyrgrejer. She beat me to making my own pair which I talked about in the last #sewingleftovers inspiration post and now I'm feeling truly inspired to crack on with mine!

 Browse #sewingleftovers on Instagram for loads more inspiration!
Stay in touch!

Sewing Leftovers: Inspiration & Ideas

#sewingleftovers
It's been amazing to see so many people sharing their makes over on Instagram using #sewingleftovers. There's been everything from incredible garments squeezed out of the tiniest scraps and leftovers repurposed as stylish linings, to bags, baskets, patchwork and English paper piecing. As primarily a garment sewer, I'm really keen to try and transform my own leftovers into something wearable - whether that been an entire item, or a garment 'feature'. So here's some inspiration for incorporating leftovers into making a stylish wardrobe:
All images sourced from Pinterest, with the exception of 7, which was sourced from Instagram
1. I've never been quite sure what to do with leftover outerwear fabric, but I absolutely LOVE this patched coat. I'm thinking next year's winter coat might be a big win for stash busting!

2. This contrast-patterned kimono-style jacket is perfect for spring/summer layering.

3. Inspiration from Paul Smith Menswear: the contrasting border sleeves and lower jumper could be a good way to use leftovers!

4. Statement pockets and stand out details like the cuffs and collars on this jacket are great for using up smaller scraps.

5. Some simple colour blocking inspiration: this RTW dress could totally be recreated with the Inari Tee Dress.

6. I want my own version of this Mimi G Simplicity 8613 men's top. Using a mix of prints for the sleeves/body of a t-shirt is a great way to mop up stray bits of jersey!

7. Instagram inspiration here from @fragmentid who made this hack of the Sew House 7 Toaster Sweater for her daughter. The contrasting collar and cuffs give it a real edge!

Personal #sewingleftovers plans

 Denim:
I have some pretty substantial chunks of denim and corduroy leftover from my many attempts at the Lander Pants. I've just finished up pair 4 and finally got the fit right, so it's time to seek out some inspiration for the scraps...
All images soured from Pinterest
1. I may be at risk of looking a bit too B*Witched, but I'm really into these jeans made from large patchwork sections, particularly the deep blue culotte version.

2. Some decorative patching/appliqué inspiration. I'd probably be less likely to do this at the point of making, but it could be a good way to salvage a much-loved pair of jeans and trousers whilst using leftovers at the same time!

3. Marilla Walker's denim Lander Pants might just be my favourites. I think I'm going to try and combine some of the patchwork elements with this version of the Landers in mind, to make my own leftover-Landers!

Pleather: 
I have a fairly small amount of textured red faux leather leftover from making the Ready to Sew Juliette Skirt which is crying out to be made into a matchy-matchy bag/purse...
All images sourced from Pinterest
1. RTW regrets - Cos had these amazing circle bags in last year and I should have bought one at the time. I'm wondering how difficult they it would be to recreate...

2. This envelope-style clutch could be easy one to draft and make from a small amount.

3.Serious matchy-bag inspiration on the catwalk at Marni.

4. The Ida Clutch Bag by Kylie and the Machine might just be the perfect #sewingleftovers project. I've made 4 already for gifts, but still don't have one of my own. I love this little handbag hack by @danisaurus33 and would love to try one out for myself! 


And if you needed any more inspiration:
  • Listen to episode 35 of Love to Sew Podcast. Helen and Caroline launch into a thoughtful, well researched and balanced discussion about sustainability and sewing, which contains some useful suggestions for scrap usage!
  • Take part in #makeyourstash challenge organised by @pilar_bear and @timetosew. Use fabric that has been in your stash for more than 6 months to make a wearable garment and share for the chance to win a prize! Full details here.
  • Read Rachael's thoughts on how sewing has had a positive impact on her environmental/ethical consciousness. 
  • Sign up to Megan Nielson's newsletter to get the Acacia Underwear pattern for free (a great one for #sewingleftovers)!

Next up for #sewingleftovers, I'll be doing a round up of fab patterns for limited amounts of fabric. If you know of any patterns that absolutely should be included please leave me a comment below :)


Stay in touch!

Atelier Brunette Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt

Atelier Brunette
Hi all! Here's the second in a series of posts about my handmade holiday wardrobe and fabric finds in Tokyo. My first Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt is one of the best and most professional looking garments I've ever sewn up and it still gets nice comments from people when I wear it - how did it take me this long to make another? This second version is definitely more geared towards summer, and made up in a soft double gauze, it feels particularly luxe.

Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt in Kamakura, Japan. Shoes: Kin by John Lewis; Hat: H&M
Like my ruffle hem Nita Wrap Skirt, this one was another last minute warm-weather-friendly make that I only finished the day before we headed off to Japan. The inspiration came from the Kin by John Lewis range. I'm rarely tempted by shop bought clothes anymore, but I find myself drawn the the brand every time I pass it on the way up to the haberdashery section in the Leeds store (I couldn't help myself with the silver Kin sandals). It took me a surprisingly long time to realise that the styles I liked the best were pretty much the same silhouette as the Sahara Shirt.

Kin by John Lewis shirts - particularly love the Laura Slater print one on the left!
My fabric choice was a beautiful Atelier Brunette double gauze from Cotton Reel Studio - purchased with a voucher I won on the Sew Up North raffle. The sewing community's love for Atelier Brunette is evident by just scrolling Instagram. I'm not usually one to jump on the designer fabric bandwagon, but I just couldn't resist this abstract brush stroke print - very Kin, no? I wish it were easier to find abstract prints like this - tips most welcome!

My finished Sahara Shirt, in Atelier Brunette
I've never sewn in double gauze before. In fact I usually avoid cottons altogether, so it just shows how much I loved the print. I'd originally hoped to make another Jazz Jumpsuit using it, but when the fabric arrived I realised it was a little too lightweight and see-through for that.

On the beach in Kamakura
After rethinking things, the Sahara Shirt seemed like a natural pattern to choose for such a special fabric. It's a pattern I'm familiar with and I've been missing wearing my first version as it's a bit too heavy for summer. The double gauze really did feel as luxurious as it's designer price tag suggested it might - so soft, it's lovely to both wear and work with.

Details in Atelier Brunette Graphic Blue Fabric
The only thing that differed in my construction of this version was including the collar (last time's was collarless). It felt necessary in this fabric and I also wanted the option to wear it open as a kimono-like cover up.

Collar and placket details

With just a day to go before my holiday, I managed to find the perfect buttons - I couldn't believe my luck! Textile Garden my usual go-to place for buttons, but with such limited time, I had to do a bit of a dash round town. I picked up these little matching blue ones from the bargain box at John Lewis - just 60p for a card of 5 and exactly the right colour.

Perfect match buttons!
The only problem I had was trying to make the very top button hole on the collar. My machine just couldn't manage it because of the bulk so I skipped it rather than risking spoiling a lovely finished garment. Has anyone got any tips for top button struggles?

The classic 'look how big it is' pose
I love my summer Sahara and it made for great holiday wear in Japan. I saw a lot of locals wearing double gauze and over sized shirts in the humid weather and I left inspired to make more! I picked up an amazing heavy textured white cotton while there and the plan is to make it up as an oversized long sleeved shirt that's a bit more climate-appropriate for home. The challenge with this Sahara Shirt is getting wear out of it now I'm back in the UK. Let's see if I can transition it into my Autumn/Winter wardrobe...

Stay in touch!

Another RTW rip off: Rise Turtleneck hack

finished project
Another week, another RTW item to rip off (*I mean make my own version of). This time the inspiration came in the form of a knit top from Finery, a mostly online brand that sells some pretty interesting garments in terms of shape and fabric combos. The top was £65, so not quite as steep as the inspiration for last week's Sahara Shirt, but still pricey, especially when you consider how not-too-far-away it is in style from the Papercut Patterns Rise/Fall Turtleneck pattern.

A Papercut Patterns Rise Turtleneck hack!

The inspiration, c/o Finery
With just a few splices to the front pattern piece, the Rise Turtleneck served as the perfect starting point for a hack. I traced the front out so it could be cut as one rather than on the fold, then drew a 'channel' on one side and cut down the lines. This split the front into 3 pattern pieces (remembering that the long straight edges of each piece needed a 1cm seam allowance adding at cutting). I also extended the length by 12cm so there was plenty room for the top to be ruched up, and added a couple of inches to the sleeve length. In hindsight, I wish I'd have cut the Fall Turtleneck's neckband instead, but I'll keep this in mind for next time.

Edits to the front pattern piece
I cut 2 of the 'channel' pieces and sewed them together to the new main front and side front pattern pieces. Something I didn't work out until later: it helps with hemming if the top channel piece is shorter - I had to do a bit of unpicking, turn it up and restitch the seams. I made a long tie that was threaded up the channel so that it just poked out at the shoulder, and sewed it into the shoulder seam in the usual steps for construction.

Ribbed jersey from Fabworks
I used a mid-weight mauve ribbed jersey from Fabworks - they have loads of great colours in this at the minute! It worked pretty well, but had more stretch than fabrics I've used with this pattern in the past. The extra stretch, combined with the fact that I may have misjudged the seam allowance markers on my (still very new-to-me) overlocker, meant that the finished thing came out pretty big. I did a LOT of taking in - I've had to take the sides in when I've made this pattern in the past, but never this much! The shoulders still sit slightly too wide, but at least it's wearable!

Pre-hemming
After all that, I very nearly ruined it at the last hurdle - the hemming. Everything I tried seemed to stretch the fabric out in an unsightly wobble. I used my walking foot and a ball point needle, tried straight stitch and stretch stitch, but still no luck. What would everyone else recommend in this situation? In the end, I had to cut off a first attempt, and do a very narrow zig zag with the walking foot, but it's still a bit wavy.

Up close
As an experiment, I'd say it's not turned out too badly overall. I definitely have a few changes that I'd try next time, the first one being to use the Fall neckband. I'd move the channel over so it sits closer to the neck - all that taking in was sucking it further and further towards the side seam - and maybe I'll go full hog and copy the split sleeves too! Colour wise, I'm not sure it's the most flattering on me, but maybe that's because I'm so used to wearing black... hopefully it will grow on me.

Worn with a recently shortened skirt I made way way back!
I'm really enjoying seeking out inspiration from the shops. Having a definite idea of what I'm creating really spurs me on, and being able to recreate something you wanted is so so satisfying! Now to go (window) shopping to seek out what's next!

Thanks Chloe and Lucy for taking snaps in the Stitch Up shop


Stay in touch!

Operation oversized shirt dress (the Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt)

finished project
After a bit of early New Year wardrobe lethargy, I decided to go to the shops - not to buy, but to try on for sewing inspiration. We have an &otherstories and Cos in Leeds now (my fave high street shops from my long gone days of shopping) so I went for a snoop. Deciding not to be limited by styles, I tried on anything that I liked the look of, which meant giving some new-to-me styles a go. And that's when I totally fell in love with the most perfect not-usually-me oversized shirt dress.

Handmade shirt dress - the Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt
Although I never intended to buy anything - inspiration trip only - I might have 'accidentally' bought the 'perfect' shirt dress from &OtherStories (pictured below), if only it hadn't been £85 (!!!). I'm neither a usual shirt-wearer or shirt-maker, and it's a bit silly but button holes still strike fear into my heart. But you do unexpected things when in love (with a shirt dress) so I made it my mission to make my own...

The (expensive) inspiration!
First step was finding the PERFECT pattern. After racking my brains a bit, I resorted to an Instagram cry for help, and was met with masses of wonderful comments and suggestions (so many suggestions in fact, that I had to make a Pinterest board to contain them)! Among the possible pattern matches were the Named Helmi, Deer & Doe Meliot - both of which have the perfect neckline - and a couple of sack dresses with the perfect sleeve, but none of them quite 'the one'. It was Hayley and Megan whose suggestions of the Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt made my heart sing. Apart from the collar, it looked spot on from the line drawing, and I thought it would be interesting to try a new-to-me pattern company, so I bought the PDF.

Taking the opportunity to use my Maker's Workbook
The PDF pattern has a border but no line to define it, so it was a bit tricky to trim to size, but once it was prepped, I was off! I used a plain black crepe with a good drape, similar to the shop bought version. The pattern only gives the yardage needed for the largest size (2.35m for size L) so I took a punt and bought 2.2m for the size Medium - perfect, with just a little breathing room. I skipped the faux pocket and collar pieces from my pattern cutting (though as a heads up, they would've fitted within the 2.2m) to get it as close to the inspiration garment as possible.

Getting to grips with my first overlocker!
Having never made a shirt before, I was a little tentative, but needn't have been. The instructions and illustrations are good and really easy to follow. Topstitching the very long plackets in place gave me the sweats just a little, but it was all suprisingly straightforward make. I also took the plunge and used my brand new overlocker for the first time, so it was a little bit of a learning curve in that sense - managing to re-thread it was a triumph in itself! I was quite thankful to have it as there are lots of veryyyy long seams to finish.

The finished dress!
Lovely draping from the side
In an attempt to copy the shop version's neckline, I sewed the 2 collar stand pieces together in the same manner as making the collar (without the actual collar pieces sandwiched in the middle). I attached the collar stand as instructed, and voila! The perfect neckline (phew)!

Detail and a pretty professional finish :)
And now for the much disliked task of adding button holes. The pattern says 11 buttons are needed, (though one of these is for the faux pocket which I skipped). I'm not sure if this is an 'unfortunately' or not, but there are no pattern markings given for the buttons on the pattern pieces. I ended up using 10 buttons on the placket, each spaced 7cm apart. I found that I needed a smaller button for the collar stand, but luckily I had a very little one in my stash. Of course, my first 3 were a near disaster - even after 3 successful practices on a replica placket, typical - but I soon got into the swing of it, and they look pretty good! As a possible word of warning, I found that the button placket came up a little long, but this was really easy to trim just before hemming.

11 button holes down and still standing!
The pattern recommends a rolled hem finish for the curved bottom. Now I've never done one before, but my overlocker's instructions said it could do them, so I gave it a go. I'm not exactly sure if it looks how a rolled hem should, but it does the job, and it was FAST. My first finished make of the year, and quite an exciting one, which has got me all the more inspired!

Back view
...and with a bit of a breeze!
I love love love the finished garment, and just a week from shop-try-on to wearing my own version isn't half bad - only a quick distraction from my #2017makenine plans! The shape is exactly what I wanted, and I'd say the addition of the curved yoke even makes it that little bit better than the &OtherStories version. I can definitely recommend the pattern and will be making it up again with the same tweaks  - in fact I've already got some textured black drapey fabric for version two! Who'd have thought I'd ever feel so stylish/cool in a sack dress?! It's a style I'm keen to explore further, so if you have any tips for fab oversized shirt/dress patterns please let me know in a comment below :)

Dangerously flag-like on a windy day... thanks Sara for the photos!

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Fabric Pilgrimage

dressmaking
I went on a trip to London last weekend. I don't know if you could quite call it a fabric pilgrimage as there were alternative motives for the visit, but I did travel via Megabus, and then caught the tube to the end of the Victoria line - and it was HOT! - so it was a mission of sorts. But when my friend suggested it, I just couldn't turn down a trip to the quite unexpected fabric haven of Walthamstow. I'd heard good things, and it's also listed on Tilly and the Buttons as a London fabric hot spot. Anyway it didn't disappoint - bargainous fabric galore!


The high street is home to an unbelievable number of fabric shops and there are many more fabric/craft/haberdashery traders to be found on the stalls of the outdoor market, which runs down the same road. It's brilliantly overwhelming. 


These pictures are from just one of the many shops. I'm not entirely sure how they can even make profit on £1 and £2 a metre fabrics - but hey, I'm not complaining! For once, could it be possible that London was CHEAPER than the North?! I have to note that not all of the fabric was great quality and it does require a fair bit of rummaging. But if, like me, you're not after anything too fancy or you just want to buy a bundle of 'practice' fabric, then you can't beat it! You'll probably even spot a few familiar prints if you still frequent the bigger high street shops - there were definitely a few fabrics I recognised from a recent trip to Primark.



I went home with 4 metres of the nautical looking blue/white/yellow stripe fabric (priced at £1 per m) and a couple of metres of the lilac flowery (still only £2 per m). Me and my purse are very happy!

So now, and in other news, how am I going to put it to use?
Well I also had a very good post day. A little bit late to the party I know, but I finally caught up and bought Love at First Stitch, the first book by (as mentioned earlier) sewist, blogger, GBSB contestant and all round, super stylish Tilly Walnes.


The beautifully designed book has seven different patterns and easy to follow guides and tutorials that take you from complete novice to proud, confident sewist. The thing I really like about the patterns are Tilly's suggestions of simple changes that make different variations of the garments. Do you remember when Gok Wan was all into that capsule wardrobe of twenty pieces or something? No? Well I do... and it's like that, only so much better. There are so many options that you could probably make them all and spend a month (or a Me Made May) hardly wearing the same combo twice!


I knew which projects I wanted to make before I'd even opened the book. I'm going to use my bargain blue stripey cotton to make a nautical-chic summer Lilou dress - I'm thinking the scalloped neckline variation...


And I have just enough of the lilac flowery to make a pretty Mimi blouse, maybe with a contrast white collar. This one will be on hold for a while until I get a new sewing machine that can handle button holes - though Tasha from By Gum, By Golly has a handy tutorial on making them by hand here for anyone who is patient enough (sorry not me!)

A good week for sewing. Must get going if I want the Lilou to be finished before my holidays!

Collar me beautiful...

collar
I LOVE collars. From the most basic Peter Pan to the stand out quirky, weird and wonderful. And I'm thinking of the Vivetta ones when I say quirky... oh if only I could afford you hands collar with red nails!


I made this simple Peter Pan collar a while back using a pattern from the Elegant Musings blog. It's a fab stash buster and a speedy little project - I didn't even bother adding the button and loop, I just use different brooches to pin it in place. You can download the free pattern and follow the tutorial to make your own from here.

Inspired by this love of collars, I did a bit of Pinterest searching and I saw this blouse and fell in love with it instantly. I clicked straight through to view the post on Amanda's blog, Bimble and Pimble (which is fab by the way). But my mind was set before the page loaded... Simplicity 2154 was my DREAM BLOUSE and I had to make it.


I internet shopped the pattern and a few days later, voila - perfect-vintage-inspired holiday-blouse-to-be landed in my letterbox! The skirt, jacket and cardigan patterns are a bonus and I'll definitely be saving them for winter.


I'm a bit nervous about using a more complex pattern - yeah I know, it's ironic when it's called 'Simplicity', but I've got so comfortable with the super simple Sewing Bee patterns! I think it's about time to step up my sewing game with a bit of a challenge though. Watch this space...

P.S. Happy book release day to Tilly Walnes of Tilly and the Buttons! Can't wait to head out and buy Love at First Stitch and get making!

Thanks for visiting!

Thanks for visiting!