DP Studio Le411

The pattern sits alongside a collection by DP Studio in a special 'couture' edition of French magazine Modes et Travaux. From what I can understand, they seem to be working with different French pattern companies to release special issues, each with a collection of patterns from that designer (French speakers correct me if I'm wrong)! I was pretty thrilled to be sent my copy as a prize from DP Studio. I'm not sure if it's still available anywhere, but at the point of writing, you can still buy the I AM PATTERNS and Wear Lemonade editions online. There are some amazing designs in the DP issue (see below) so I'd definitely recommend it if you can find a copy!

Le411 Skirt pattern

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Shauni S (@shaunimagnifique) on Jan 4, 2018 at 4:19am PST

I cut a size 40 which was spot on for my measurements, though it's worth noting that this particular pattern had a very small seam allowance - just 0.7cm - so no wiggle room whatsoever with sizing. Some of the other patterns in the magazine had larger seam allowances, which is quite confusing, but  each is stated clearly, and well, at least they're included!

Back view

That flounce!

I settled on layering the sheer fabric over the crepe for the ruffle alone. I haven't done much circle-based construction in my sewing before, but it was interesting to see the almost full circle ruffle come to fit with the curved edge of the main skirt - the volume is amazing. I would have quite liked to finish both layers of fabric separately for more movement, but I wasn't sure of the best approach for hemming the sheer fabric - how would you everyone else do this? - so I treated them as one. I overlocked the bottom edges together, and painstakingly hand sewed the whole hem for the neatest finish - it took hours but was quite a satisfying job in all.

I immediately loved this skirt from first try on, and I know it's going to be the perfect wear-all-winter garment. I'll definitely make the Le411 again at some point, and I have some lilac viscose/crepe that would be perfect for a second, I'd just need to figure out how to line it too. I'm encouraged to try more projects from the magazine  - there's an amazing ruffled turtleneck - and would consider buying the others editions too as they're definitely great value for money!

Finished Le 809

The Le 809 is an oversized, partially lined coat, with two length options (both are pretty long), welt pockets and, the selling point for me, the option of having an 'incorporated gilet' with View A. It helped that I already had the perfect fabric in my stash - a soft, grey leopard print wool (mix I think?) bought at the Harrogate Knit and Stitch Show in 2016. I had been considering using it for the Orgageuse Riga Coat but I knew that the DP Studio Coat would work perfectly with the print as soon as I saw it. The fabric requirements for the Le 809 were confusingly listed as 3.15m on the cover and 3.25m in the instructions, but either way, I managed to squeeze it out of the 3m of fabric I had.

Supplies for the Le 809 (with button options)!

I thoroughly enjoyed all aspects of this project, but I must admit, I did have a few frustrations with the instructions, the first being the poor listing of required notions. The zip length isn't specified so I had to measure the pattern pieces to work it out - I made the size 42 and found a 40cm zip to be just right. I also used nearly 5m of fusible bias tape - not mentioned until the instruction to apply it - and I was most shocked of all that the requirement for nearly 10m(!!) of bias binding was nowhere to be seen. I've never done so many trips back and forth to town for one project. I think I rinsed the haberdasheries of Leeds of all their black and grey bias binding, so FYI, buy in bulk!

Worn open with a zipped gilet

A note on the instructions... If you've used a DP Studio pattern before, you'll know that they favour large and quite simple illustrations, usually with fairly short descriptions of how to complete each step. I got on with this format really well for their Knit Asymmetric Dress which is quite an easy make, but I was surprised to find that more detail wasn't included in the instructions for a project as complex as a coat. Perhaps some of the struggle came from trying to understand the translated instructions which don't always read too clearly, but I also found myself having to do a lot of thinking beyond the pattern.

Camouflage welts!

Total confusion over the length/hemming

The hem lines were really confusing, so it might be that I did something wrong at the cutting stage, but the pattern seems to direct you to cut out a square at the bottom of the centre front. It quickly became clear that the rest of the front was much longer than the front facing and back pieces when they were all joined together (see picture above). Even more bizarrely, when I compared pattern pieces with fellow maker Jess, hers seemed to have different cut/hem lines!

Back view and wind-blown vent

The slit facing for the vent was also too long, so I cut off the excess on that and the lower front, before winging the rest. I attached the hem to the front facing loosely based on how I remembered doing it on previous jackets (I shortened the front facing by a couple of inches and sewed it to the right side of the bottom front, so that some of the front flips to the underside with the facing) and stitched the rest of the hem by hand.

Pre-gilet insertion

Thankfully the gilet was really fun to construct and quite easy to attach to the rest of the coat. It's essentially a backless zip-turtleneck, made up of 2 layers of the outer fabric (one of them is interfaced) so it's really warm to wear. The collar is a little restrictive when fully zipped up - especially with a wardrobe-staple roll neck underneath - so I would probably shave 1cm off the depth if I made it again.

Strangely, the coat is only half lined - a design choice I guess, but after all of the effort with binding the edges (as neat as they look) it may as well be fully lined, and I wish it had been an option. If I made the coat again, I'd consider extending my lining pieces, as my intention was to fully make a statement with my contrast lining (not just a half of one)!

Half lining and insides

After all of the work that went into the coat, I couldn't spoil it with normal buttonholes, so I made my first ever bound buttonholes following a tutorial from Colette. I had to finish them by hand due to the bulk and weight of the coat, but I''m really pleased with them. I wish I'd budged each one up by an inch - you know once you notice something is a bit off and can't stop thinking about it?! - but I can live with them as they are! I bought 3 different sets of buttons to pick from, and eventually went with these cool silver mirrored ones from Duttons for Buttons.

Buttons from Duttons for Buttons

I finished up the coat with a lot of hand stitching to secure the different layers of facing/collar/outer together. I'm not sure if this is standard practice for more experienced coat sewists, but the coat does look better to wear for it and is easier to put on without loads of straightening and adjusting. It still sits a little off sometimes (you can probably notice the gilet is a bit bunched up in some pics) but I did the very best I could with it.

Layers of collar and gilet

I feel like I've complained about the pattern quite a bit in this post, but I have to stress that I'm absolutely thrilled with my finished coat! DP Studio is in a league of its own in terms of offering such impressive, fashion-forward designs, and although the instructions were a bit sparse in parts, they encouraged me to slow down and flex the skills I already have. Focusing on the step in hand rather than the end goal really did make the process of sewing the coat much more enjoyable. I surprised myself with what I was able to work out and whilst I might not have followed each step exactly as intended, the end result looks exactly as it's meant to, which is pretty satisfying.

Check the oversized style

It's definitely a statement coat, both in silhouette and print, and I'm really happy about it - it feels unusual and very 'cool' to wear! I think I benefitted from having made a few bits of outerwear in the past and would've probably been in tears if not, so I wouldn't recommend the Le 809 for a first attempt at coat making. It is a great make though, and a good challenge if you're willing to put a bit of thought into the construction. I'm sure there are also plenty of sewing tutorials out there to help with some of the trickier bits - the welt pockets, finishing the vent and the front facing/hem.

Thanks Erin for taking super profesh pics :)

Giving serious goth girl stares in the DP Studio Le003

I came across DP Studio online a couple of months back and have noticed a growing buzz around the French pattern company on social media. I was amazed by the patterns, which shoot well beyond the realms of Vogue-designer in terms of 'fashion forward' and 'on trend'. I'd say some of the designs are even a bit too trendy, but it's so refreshing to see such edgy and current looks available in sewing pattern form! I took the plunge and ordered the Knit Asymmetric Dress, which was quite possibly the most expensive pattern (including shipping from France) that I've ever bought.

One of the most expensive patterns (including shipping) that I've ever bought💸 but well worth it based on the beautiful packaging/presentation alone! Nearly finished sewing the Knit Asymmetric Dress and it might just be living up to my high expectations! 💕#DPstudio

A post shared by Shauni S (@shaunimagnifique) on Apr 4, 2017 at 10:50am PDT

I knew it was worth it the minute it landed on my door step, if only for the beautiful packaging and presentation alone! The envelope is deep and A4 in size, and contains both French and English language instructions; a huge relief as I thought I'd be using a translator the whole way through!

Based on the pattern's recommendations, I picked a 2-way stretch, scuba-like fabric from the grab bins in Abakhan Manchester. The fabric weighed in at less than £10, so a pretty cheap way to test run the pattern. It's a decent weight for holding the shape of the dress and giving body to the drapey asymmetric design.

Side view

I fell across sizes 40-44 with the measurements given, but eventually went with the 42 as I thought the stretch would give me a bit more wiggle room (I'd usually go with a size 40/UK 14 with big 4 patterns). I spent quite a lot of time worrying that the dress would come up too small - it looks tiny to make up, but then I guess it's meant to be pretty fitted when finished. I made a few fit adjustments along the way:

- 0.5cm side seams for a bit of extra room through the hip, which was surprisingly narrow (my hip measurement actually fell into the size 40, which would definitely have been too small)! Sonja also found the hips ran quite small in her DP make so maybe something to watch out for.
- 1.5cm arm hole seams - the shoulders were just a bit too wide, hence the adjustment after the first try on.
- Re-cutting the neck band with an extra 1" added to the width - although the neckband would look better flush to my neck in it's original size, there was absolutely NO WAY I was getting it over my head.

Despite some crazy looking pattern pieces, the dress was a breeze to put together and I managed most of the construction in an evening. It felt a bit like making a jigsaw using random fabric shapes.

Mid-questioning the camera angles. Thanks Chris for taking pictures.

The instructions are somewhat minimal text-wise, but the illustrations are some of the best I've ever seen. The pattern requires the maker to apply a bit of pre-knowledge/sewing sense to press out the seams and finished raw edges - it doesn't tell you to do these things at each step along the way - but I followed the each step with total ease. My only small gripe is that the pattern suggests using a coverstitch machine to finish all the hems, which I'm not really sure that many people will have access to (I've barely got to grips with my overlocker yet, never mind introducing another new machine)! I hemmed my garment on a regular machine which worked out just fine.

Milk bottle legs are out to distract from weird ruching in the back

The 'can you see what I ate for dinner last night?!' pose

In all, I'm hugely impressed with the pattern, the instructions and the cool and unusual design of the dress. I'd definitely make it again or purchase another DP Studio pattern in future.

DP Studio website

Have you made or got your eye on any DP Studio patterns?