Trend Patterns TPC12

I bought the TPC12 from Trend's stall at last year's Knitting and Stitching Show in London because I really liked the unusual design, but in the immediate, it was mainly to add to my decorative collection of Trend Patterns that sits on a shelf. I also picked up a rich blue denim from Cloth House with the pattern in mind, but felt like I needed to try out a (hopefully wearable) muslin before taking the plunge, as it was quite an investment piece! Including the pattern in my #2019makenine has been a good incentive to get to work with it.

My Cloth House denim and stash corduroy

The pattern requirements state 2.3m, though as with the other Trend Patterns I've tried, the yardage is only given for the largest size. I managed to squeeze my pair out of 1.6m of this orange/red corduroy from B&M in Leeds which had been in my stash for a while. It really was a squeeze and I have learned a thing or two about nap as a result... mainly that corduroy is napped. Sooo the pile runs in different directions on some of the pieces - yep I'm looking at the lower leg piece below the random flap - but oh well! I'd say it would fit more comfortably from 2m in future!
In terms of sizing, my 72cm waist put me just outside of the finished garment measurements of the size 10, but I decided to risk it anyway having found my last Trend make (this TPC16 dress) too big at a size 12. I could have graded down a bit at the hips, but I didn't fancy messing with that shaping!

The trousers were one of the most involved and engaging projects I've made in a long time! The weird construction details, alongside the new-to-me technique of a concealed button fly, meant that I had to put a lot of trust in the pattern instructions. Whilst instructions from Trend often assume some previous knowledge and could be a bit more descriptive in parts, I found these ones to be pretty great! My only comment is that it's sometimes a bit difficult to tell the right side from the wrong side in the construction photographs as the demo garment is plain white!

So lets look at the details...

Leg flap

The Leg Flap: completely pointless yet totally necessary? It serves no real purpose other than looking sort of fun. There's the option to topstitch around it and the front seams of the leg too, but I skipped this as it wouldn't really be visible on the corduroy. It probably wouldn't be impossible to hack this into a real pocket - something to consider for next time!

Leg vents

The Leg Vents: the easiest to make and maybe the coolest trouser addition you could ask for! It's actually a bit cold for such levels of ankle flashing at the minute, but I'd seriously consider applying a similar hack to other trousers in future.

Closure details

The Concealed Button Fly: I hadn't realised the fly had a button closure until I'd fully committed to the project, and I might have let it put me off had I have known (I imagine you could swap this out for a zip, but as a warning, you'd need a big ol' zip the crotch is longgg). This was my first attempt at a concealed button fly and it wasn't nearly as difficult as I imagined. I was worried that this sort of closure might look bulky, but it lays really flat and the finish is super professional. I took my time with the button holes and made sure to use plenty of fray check. The only thing I changed was using hook and bar fasteners for the outside tab rather than another button.

The pattern doesn't highlight the need to attach the fly together at the bottom so it lumped up a bit strange when sitting, but a few hand stitches sorted this out.

Back view

Having been worried about the waist measurement originally, I actually found that they came up a bit big. I adjusted them for a closer fit by unpicking the waistband and back to take a 2cm seam allowance (rather than the regular 1cm) along the centre back. The resulting fit is much better, though in future I think I'd take a bit more out of the bum and could shave a bit of volume from the hips. It's worth mentioning that the waistband itself is curved, which supports the depth of it and really improves how it hugs the body - now I finally get why sewists love a curved waistband!

#2018makenine: 7 out of 9, but it's not all as rosy as it seems...

Papercut Patterns Kyoto Sweater in green sweatshirting (unblogged)
January 2018
Fate: recycled
This was a real fail: the fabric looked cheap and the neckline gaped to an unwearable extent - something I found with other Kyotos. I'm giving up on this pattern.

Simplicity 8459 in orange corduroy
January 2018
Fate: charity shop
I really enjoyed making this and I was even pleased with the finished product, but surprisingly it just didn't fall into regular rotation. Maybe the corduroy was a bit thin for the project. I'm hoping someone else gets more love out of it than me!

Lander Pants, multiple pairs
February-May 2018
Fate: Two worn, one charity shopped
I had a real bee in my bonnet over the Landers at the beginning of the year, determined but struggling to get the fit right. I learnt a lot about making adjustments, but mainly that I have a long crotch (!!!) and the two that are still in the wardrobe (one in black cord and this pair in yellow denim) are just almost spot on! I'll probably return to this pattern at some point in 2019, with just a few more tweaks.

Named Clothing Nascha Mini Skirt in mustard denim
Unmade

DP Studio le 809 Coat in grey leopard print wool
January 2018
Fate: worn
This was very much a challenging make, but a coat which got a lot of wear early in the year. Unfortunately I haven't been as tempted to put it back on this winter, feeling it looks that bit too oversized, but it survived the big end of year clear out at least.

République du Chiffon Elisabeth Blouse in khaki crepe (unblogged)
April 2018
Fate: charity shop
This was a clunky make, mainly starting with the wrong fabric choice (too heavy) and extending to my poor efforts with the details (see this Instagram post). The finished blouse looked ok, but the volume and swing of it just didn't suit me.

DP Studio le 915 Shirt Dress in bottle green viscose
Unmade but fabric reallocated
Perhaps one of my best decisions of this year's make nine was to reallocate this bottle green viscose to making one of my favourite garments of the year: the Pretty Mercerie Sayan Blouse

Wool and the Gang Relax Knit Through it Sweater
December 2018
Fate: worn
It took almost a year, but I finished my first knitted jumper and it felt all new kinds of rewarding!

Trend Patterns Side Drawstring Dress
August 2018
Fare: worn
A massive challenge, a bit of a headache, but it's still hanging in the wardrobe and gets the occasional wear!


So onto this year's plans, and still using the #2019makenine concept, but thinking of ways I can better make it work for me. Similar to last year, I already have the pattern, and in some cases the fabric for all of my chosen projects, so I'm investing in my stash. I've tried to include choices that are (hopefully) more timeless, leaning towards the bigger projects like jackets and bags, and another knitted project as I enjoyed last year's so much.

#2019makenine

1) Fibremood Carmella Jumpsuit
2) Joe Ready to Sew Blazer in grey pinstripe wool with matching trousers (pattern TBD)
3) Sarah Kirsten Fennel Fanny Pack
4) Trend Patterns TPC12 Utility Trousers, first in corduroy (hopefully a wearable muslin) and then in rich blue denim
5) Sew Over It Cocoon Coat in Maculloch & Wallis mohair, which I finally took the plunge on
6) Fibre Mood Tara Knitted Jumper
7) Pretty Mercerie Sayan Blouse in yellow crepe bought at Tomato in Tokyo
8) Making Backpack by Noodlehead (this one is by @notaprimarycolour)
9) True Bias Nikko Dress hack to match this Phoebe Philo for Celine dress

I plan to be thoughtful with these makes and flexible with myself and my choices - if I change my mind on something, that's totally fine. All the projects should present a bit of a challenge, even the Sayan which I'm revisiting and the Nikko Dress, which will need a bit more consideration due to the hack. Hopefully this will help me to take things more slowly.

Have you been rethinking your sewing plans this year?