Super Scalloped Lilou

DIY
My shiny new copy of Love at First Stitch and the bargain fabric I wrote about it my last post have been keeping me super busy this week!


Pins and scissors ready, I jumped straight into making the lovely Lilou dress so I could have it ready to take on my holiday. The stripe fabric I used is a lightweight cotton - pretty good for what is officially my first me-made summer dress!

I love scalloped edges. I seem to spot lovely scalloped-detailed garments in shops like Hobbs all the time, but then I always have the 'Ohhh can I justify spending this much..?' debate. So I was thrilled to see that one of Tilly's suggested variations for the Lilou dress was to make a scalloped neckline.


Tilly provides step-by-step instructions on how to add the scallops to your pattern. I knew that tin of Savers kidney beans would come in handy at some point! (Product placement at its best - other tins are available). I traced around the tin so mine would be bold and deep. The construction part is SO simple - I think my wardrobe will be full of scalloped edges and trims soon!


Love at First Stitch is great because it gives you the confidence to try out these tricks and techniques that you've long-admired, but not quite plucked up the guts to actually do. Sometimes - especially for the not so confident sewist - it's easy to get caught up in sticking to the pattern and following the 'rules'. The book encourages you the reader/maker to 'make it your own' throughout, and that's something I love - even more of that 'I did it myself!' feeling when you've done.


I cut a straight size 3, and like A Stitching Odyssey, I reduced my seam allowance to 1cm near the bust to avoid the dreaded FBA. In hindsight, I probably should have re-positioned the bust dart as everything's looking a bit pointy around there - but hey, maybe I wanted everyone to think that I'm wearing Madonna-style Gaultier underwear...

One thing I did do was take in the shoulder seams a little to stop a bit of gaping in the back. I'd probably take a centimetre off the shoulders on the pattern next time, just to get the right fit for me.



And it's done! I'm not sure I'd win any prizes if you inspected the finish up close, but that's my fault for making a few mistakes and being too lazy to fix them. The waist seam at the back doesn't quite match at either side of the zip - it's just a few millimetres out - and not all of my skirt pleats meet the darts on the bodice where they should. But I think you'd only notice these things if you were told (whoops, there I go giving away my secrets!) By placing the horizontal stripes on the bodice and vertical stripes on the skirt, I will hopefully confuse the onlooker's eyes so they don't see them anyway - definitely the intention.


The whole dress has cost me less than £5 to make, and I'd say that the quality is a fair bit better than a cheap dress from the high street. The lined bodice gives it a particularly nice, neat finish - hiding away all the raw edges and dodgy bits! I haven't lined a garment since I did my A Levels, so it was a really useful reminder/practice.


The Lilou dress might well become my new wardrobe staple. It's so simple, but at the same time, the results are really pretty - it proves that you don't need to put a bow of distraction on top of everything *cough cough*. You only need 2 metres of your main fabric for the dress itself, (0.5 of your lining fabric) so I definitely plan on having a snoop in the fabric shop and investing in something a bit fancier.
Some ideas:

  1. A chintzy floral Lilou, maybe with a longer length skirt and regular neckline
  2. A medium-weight quality black fabric LBL (Little Black Lilou)
  3. A bold, block-coloured Lilou -  I'm thinking green or red
Here is a quick view of the back of the dress too. Eagle-eyed readers may spot some slightly out stitching, but oh well!


So it looks like me and the Lilou pattern are going to become very well acquainted. I'm also keen to try out the Mimi blouse. But for now, I'm signing off and putting down the needle and thread. It's mere HOURS until I leave to go on holiday, and as I'm heading to a music festival, I just had to see if the Lilou has the moves...


...OH YES IT DOES. Adiós!

'The emergency exits are located here, here and here...'

collar
Arghhh, I've done it, I've started the DREAM BLOUSE!

I spent soooo long trying to pick a fabric that was just right. I went to the shops with red-spots-on-white in mind, a bit like an inverted version of Handmade Jane's lovely version which can be found here... but no success. So I just went all out and bought this incredibly retro 100% cotton - scroll down for a closer look. I'm probably going to end up looking all retro air hostess like the model on the cover of the pattern, but oh well, I think that's a look I can handle.


I behaved like a very studious little dressmaker and read all of the instructions before beginning. It's a good job as well, because you had to fold RIGHT sides together when cutting out the fabric - that's not something I've come across before, it might not have made too much difference anyway, but I followed it word for word.


Then came the boring, time-consuming bit - transferring all of the pattern markings. Lots and lots of dots, a fair few darts, and notches galore.


Then the sewing... which so far, has been pretty straight forward. Me/my machine struggled a bit with the more complex front and back darts. Part of this is because my machine is a mini Janome for beginners. It really struggles with taking up fabric/gripping it properly, making it much harder to sew in straight lines, hummppphhh. The other part is down to me - I pinned my darts but didn't tack them into place and now they're a bit wonky. Lesson learnt, tacking is imperative and I'd better not get too big for my boots now.


All being said with the darts, it doesn't actually look too bad at all! I've just pinned the collar into place on this picture to give an idea of what it will look like. There's a neat little opening in the centre front seam just above the bust, and one at the back, which will fasten with a button and loop. It also has a side zip, something I completely didn't realise at first (didn't read the instructions that well did I?!) so I had to make a return visit to shops to pick one up.

But now for the BOW! Ohhh the bow <3

Collar me beautiful...

collar
I LOVE collars. From the most basic Peter Pan to the stand out quirky, weird and wonderful. And I'm thinking of the Vivetta ones when I say quirky... oh if only I could afford you hands collar with red nails!


I made this simple Peter Pan collar a while back using a pattern from the Elegant Musings blog. It's a fab stash buster and a speedy little project - I didn't even bother adding the button and loop, I just use different brooches to pin it in place. You can download the free pattern and follow the tutorial to make your own from here.

Inspired by this love of collars, I did a bit of Pinterest searching and I saw this blouse and fell in love with it instantly. I clicked straight through to view the post on Amanda's blog, Bimble and Pimble (which is fab by the way). But my mind was set before the page loaded... Simplicity 2154 was my DREAM BLOUSE and I had to make it.


I internet shopped the pattern and a few days later, voila - perfect-vintage-inspired holiday-blouse-to-be landed in my letterbox! The skirt, jacket and cardigan patterns are a bonus and I'll definitely be saving them for winter.


I'm a bit nervous about using a more complex pattern - yeah I know, it's ironic when it's called 'Simplicity', but I've got so comfortable with the super simple Sewing Bee patterns! I think it's about time to step up my sewing game with a bit of a challenge though. Watch this space...

P.S. Happy book release day to Tilly Walnes of Tilly and the Buttons! Can't wait to head out and buy Love at First Stitch and get making!

Fitting and finishing

denim
I'm well on my way to a denim wardrobe - I did used to know someone who was partial to wearing triple denim, so I may have to take some tips!

Constructing the skirt was really simple, especially as I've made it before. It's just the fitting that takes a while. A lot of trying it on inside out and pinning to get the shape just right.



*Note - If I was making something fancier I would've probably asked for some assistance with the fitting. It's pretty awkward to fit a garment properly whilst twisting, turning and pinning!*

After I'd got the fit down - and made sure I could sit down in it this time! - it just needed a few finishing touches.


Since using bias binding for the hem of a full skirted dress, I'm a complete convert. Neat and speedy to do, and I even managed to accidentally match it to my nail polish. I chose a nice contrasting colour for any little flashes of it that you might catch through the kick pleat. 



A bit of slip stitch to secure the waist facing in place and it's all done. 

Despite being one of the simplest garments I've made, I'd say it's probably the best in fit and finish. 


Almost holiday ready now! Just need to have a go at making a blouse to go with it too - well I do have enough denim...

C'est La Vie!

denim
I'm soon to be visiting a place with a much warmer climate, but as a light-jacket weather sort of person, I face the small problem of having NO summer clothes. So with a holiday wardrobe in mind, I have a little bit of 'the fear' and need to get sewing!

My Sewing Bee pencil skirt has had quite a few wears, so I thought I'd make another, but one more suited to the season. At the time of making, I thought it would be great in a medium-light coloured denim, and it was quite an easy one to whip up, so I thought I'd give it a go.


I went to the local market with the right amounts in mind, but somehow managed to return home with enough denim to clothe B*Witched circa 1998...


I clearly have great ambitions to join B*Witched - hope there's enough denim to make a cowboy hat too!
I'd recommend this pattern for all levels of skill. It has real minimal pattern markings/tailor tacks and that's always the bit that I get most impatient with.


Just a bit of prep with basting the darts (4 in the front and 2 on each of the back pieces) and then you're ready to get sewing. I'm making it up in the size 12 measurements this time as I had to adjust the fit quite a lot last time.


Ready to get sewing... so C'est La Vie!

Work In (polka) Progress

DIY
I've been spending my evenings slaving over my sewing machine and a hot iron- and I've watched LOADS of the Sex and the City box set while doing so. I have an event in mind that I'd like to wear my (currently unfinished) polka dot dress to... and it's SOON.



Notes on making so far:
  1. The basic shell of the bodice was quite simple to put together, though I thought I'd cut the side bodice in the wrong size at first. It turns out, there has to be a bit of extra fabric to allow a bit of give in the shaping of the bust. After taking care to match all the pattern markings properly, my panic was over. 
  2. I attached my skirt before taking in the side seams and doing a bit of grading to make the waist a better fit. This is probably cheating... or cutting corners at least. In future, I know it would be best to have a bit of patience and work these adjustments out on the pattern before jumping into the making. Although I have a nice smooth side seam now, it would save all the excess fabric at the seams and the unpicking/re-stitching game.
  3. The bust was pretty tricky to shape, but not unmanageable. I must have tried it on about 10 times already, as well as accidentally pinning it to my bra/me (ouch!) You can still see some pins at the top of the bust on the picture above. Just a few final tweaks now the skirt is attached and I've got the zip in place. *I will make this fit!*


It took a bit of work, but it feels so good to have got the fit of the bodice pretty much spot on. I was a bit unsure about adding the sleeves, but once I had the fit down, I thought why not?! Apologies for the badly lit mirror selfies and my pasty legs - must work out a better way to take pictures.

All that's left now is a bit of sewing to finish off the arms and hem, both with bias binding. So nearly WIP no longer!



Polka party!

DIY
I'm a couple of skirts in to my serious effort to sew, and I think it's about time I made a dress. I've made a dress before actually, but it was about 6 years ago - an *ahem* interesting, shiny, corseted creation for my for my A Level textiles coursework...

Making my own dresses might be the only way that I'm going to get a good fit. I have quite a small waist and hips, but a completely out of proportion bust measurement. If I go with the size that fits my boobs it looks like you could pitch me up on a festival camp site. If I choose the size that suits my waist, my breasts will embark upon an angry protest to escape the constraints of size 10 seams - I probably wouldn't be able to breath either. 


I'm going for this dress anyway - yes it's another from the Sewing Bee book, I'm getting predictable now. There are loads of online tutorials for traditional Full Bust Adjustments, but I'm going to save that for another time, as I happened to pick a dress without darts. The bodice however, has a front bodice and two side bodice pieces, so hopefully it should be fairly adjustable in fit - as long as I cut enough fabric!

I'm using a medium weight, polka-dot printed cotton. Hopefully it will be just right in thickness - withstand the fullness of my bust while still having plenty of movement in the full skirt. I managed to get the PERFECT match on my zip/thread/bias binding too.


It's a good job the living room is a decent size. This is more fabric and pattern pieces than I'm used to working with! I haven't decided whether to add the sleeves or not so I've put that pattern piece to one side for now.


I'm feeling a bit nervous about the making, but that's because I really want it to work. Fingers crossed I can wear it with me-made pride! And who knows, it could revolutionise my wardrobe. Here's hoping.

Box pleat challenge

box pleats
I'm continuing to thumb my way through the pages of the Sewing Bee 'Sew Your Own Wardrobe' book. I loved the box pleat skirt challenge that May and Patrick set early on in the series, so I thought I'd have a go for myself.
I went to Samuel Taylors (a fab haberdashery in Leeds, not too far from the Corn Exchange for those familiar with the city) to pick up supplies. They have a basement full of beautiful fabrics to browse and buy. I picked up a lovely medium-weight grey fabric for the box pleat skirt, and I have my eye on a few others for future projects. 
After last time's mis-measure I decided to make the skirt up in size 12 measurements, and luckily it fitted perfectly without needing any adjustments. A bit of tailors chalk and a hot iron sorted my box pleats, and I think I've just about mastered the lapped zip - though I did end up inserting it in the wrong side, oops! It only took me a Sunday afternoon and evening to make, and just a little while the next day to finish the hem.

I'm channelling my inner Daria here in the finished skirt with super chunky Dr Marten's (that I've yet to wear in).
I can do girly too! Worn below with a vintage silk blouse I got from Stockport Vintage Village Fair a while back. 
It's such an easy skirt to wear, and pretty simple to make too - I'd definitely recommend giving it a go. The only thing I'd do differently is to use a medium-weight interfacing on the waistband rather than the recommended lightweight - it squashes up and creases a bit too much when sitting down.

Ready for the next challenge... Perhaps it's time to try a top or a dress.

Leftovers

DIY
I'm really pleased with the skirt that featured in my last post, particularly because it only really cost the price of the zip to make it! I raided my stash of fabric and found some leftovers from my last effort to start sewing seriously, which was about a year ago. I made this tartan skirt with a huge flounce from Cloth magazine.


I bought an excessive amount of fabric so I could match the plaid pattern at the seams, and it turned out pretty well... but then I've never worn it. I like it on the hanger but it just doesn't really suit me.

I learnt a few things while I was making it anyway:

  1. Up-scaling patterns by hand is a real pain - it takes more concentration and patience than I have.
  2. The photocopier at my local supermarket is SO frustrating to use, effectively upping my stress levels x1 million.
  3. Printing patterns and piecing them together isn't so fun, but at least I'm capable of cutting and sticking.
I ended up printing all 62 pages off and Sellotaping the whole thing together. 
I think I'll be sticking to pre-printed patterns in future! 


I still love the fabric and had plenty leftover, so I set off making a skirt that I would actually wear. The pattern is from the second Great British Sewing Bee book, which I'd really recommend. It has full sized patterns ready to trace (I used a roll of greaseproof paper as I couldn't find pattern/tracing paper anywhere!) and really clear instructions to follow.

The skirt itself is really simple to sew and reminded me of some of the basics, like creating darts and inserting zips - especially tricky when your sewing machine hasn't got a proper zipper foot! I also learnt how to do a pretty nifty uneven slipstictch for a nice, neat hem.

The new skirt has already had a few outings and has survived it's first run through the washing machine. I'm already planning a second version!




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