Giving the Cold Shoulder: How to

cold shoulder
Make your own cold shoulder inserts
My last post was all about a 'cold shoulder' hack of the By Hand London Flora dress, and as I mentioned there, I thought it might be useful to write up a more detailed post of how I did it. The best thing about the cold shoulder inserts is that they're not a Flora-exclusive hack - they can be paired with pretty much any sleeveless bodice, or could even be used to update an old top or dress to make it bang on trend.

How to give the cold shoulder!
The look is still going strong in the shops/on Instagram/pretty much everywhere, but here's a bit more inspiration should you need it:

Images from Pinterest, including garments from Finery, Topshop and Whistles
Make your own
  • Measure around your arm - preferably wearing your bodice or a muslin of your bodice if you have one. You want to measure edge of your dress on the front, to the edge of the arm hole on the back.
Measurements
  • My cold shoulder inserts are close fitting, so I cut the basic arm band out at 10.5" long x 4" deep (this includes a seam allowance).
  • You need to cut out a second, longer piece that will be gathered into the arm band. Mine is 16" long x 4" deep (including seam allowance) but this length can be adjusted depending on how much gathering you want. 
Gathering
  • Gather the longer piece using your preferred gathering technique - I like to sew 3 rows of long stitches within a 1.5cm seam allowance (no back stitching at the beginning or end) and pull the end threads to gather.
  • *Note* For my own project, I folded the longer piece in half depth-ways before gathering. This creates slightly more structured gathers/ruffles and avoids any hemming, but can be a bit bulky depending on your fabric. For the purpose of this tutorial, I haven't folded the gathered piece and it has a bit more 'flow' and drape. If you choose not to fold them, you will need to decide how deep you want your inserts to fall, and hem the bottom of them before adding them to your garment. 
  • Gather the piece until it is the same length as the arm band insert.
  • Even up the gathers, and pin the gathered section to your arm band, right sides together.
Gather and pin
  • Machine stitch in place, trim or grade your seam allowances to reduce bulk, open the seam out and press lightly.
Machine stitch in place
  • On the other side of the arm band, fold and press 1.5cm towards the wrong side.
Folding a seam allowance under
  • Fold the arm band in half, so that the folded edge you've just created meets the seam where your gathered piece has been stitched in place.
  • With all seam allowances folded up towards the arm band, press and pin (all the raw edges will now be concealed).
Finishing your inserts
  • Hand stitch in place. I love to slip stitch, but Sew Essential have created a bunch of really helpful video tutorials on all the different ways of hand finishing - find your favourite here.
  • Hem the bottom of your insert if required.
Now make another!
Once you have both your inserts, you just have to join them to your dress or top of choice. 

Working out your positioning with a muslin
If your garment is lined like the Flora bodice, then you can sandwich the insert between the bodice outer and lining (it's helpful to baste them in place and check the positioning first!). With the Flora, you do this in the same manner as inserting the straps (see below). *Note*  I lowered the Flora neckline by 1" so the inserts could be lined up with it, so you might want to consider whether your bodice needs any adjusting!

Joining inserts as you would join straps
If your garment is unlined, or you're using your inserts to update an already-finished garment, I'd recommend finishing the ends of your inserts. This could be with an overlocker or zig zag stitch, or if your fabric isn't too bulky, you may be able to hem the ends. Finish the arm hole of your garment if you haven't already done so. Baste the inserts in place and check the positioning. Then stitch them in place by either neatly machining, or hand stitching if you don't  want too much visible stitching on the outside of your garment.

And hopefully you'll end up with a beautiful finished cold shoulder dress or top!
If you try it out I'd love to see the results! You can find me/get in touch using the links below, or email me at magnificent.thread[at]gmail.com.

Stay in touch!


Tutorial: Turn your trousers into overalls

pattern hack
I've noticed the growing trend for wearing overalls, dungarees and pinafore dresses and I wanted in on it! Rather than committing to a shop bought pair, I decided to make a simple detachable bib and braces to transform my GBSB casual trousers. I took some photos along the way and wrote a step-by-step tutorial - the bib and braces button to the inside of the waistband, so if you'd like to make your own, this should work for almost any trousers or skirts.


I had an idea of how I wanted my overalls to look, but here are some of my favourites from an inspiration hunt on Pinterest:


You will need:
  • A pair of trousers or a skirt
  • Leftover fabric (it doesn't have to match!)
  • Medium weight interfacing
  • 5 buttons
  • Matching thread

1. Take measurements

Try on the trousers (or skirt) that you're making the bib for, so you can see exactly where they sit on your waist. Take a measurement along the front of your waist for the width of your bib, and then take a measurement for the length of the bib - it should sit just above your bust.

2. Do some working out and cut your fabric

If you're brave, you can get straight to cutting your fabric, but I drew out this plan of my measurements, adding seam allowances on each side and an extra 3.5" on the bottom. The extra 3.5" gets folded and sits underneath the waistband of the trousers, so you may want to adjust this measurement depending on the depth of your waistband.

Cut out your bib.

3. Apply interfacing

Apply a strip of interfacing to bottom 3.5" of your bib. This will provide stability when you sew in button holes later. 

4. Finish the edges

Turn the sides of your bib in by about 0.7cm and press. Turn them in on themselves again, pin and stitch. Do the same with the top edge of your bib. 

5. Finish the bottom of your bib

Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the bib.
Fold along the fold line - wrong sides together - and pin in place and stitch. The bottom of your bib should be quite sturdy, with your interfacing encased inside.

6. Make your braces

Cut two long lengths of fabric, twice the width that you intend them to be, (remembering to add a seam allowance). I based mine on the laces from the Kielo Wrap Dress which are 3.25cm wide when finished. My finished braces are 66cm long, but I found it easier to cut them quite a bit longer so there's a bit of wiggle room for adjustments later.

Fold each lace, right sides facing, pin and stitch one end and side. Trim your seams, turn out and press.

7. Attach your braces to the bib

Pin the finished ends of the braces - one at each corner of your bib - and machine stitch them in place.

8. Sew button holes on your bib

Following your machine's instructions, sew button holes on the bottom interfaced panel of your bib. I chose to do 3, but you might want to do more depending on the width of the bib and the fabric you use - no matter how many you do, I'd recommend always having a button hole at the centre front.

9. Sew your buttons

Sew buttons to the inside of your trouser waistband to correspond with the button holes on your bib. If your waistband is elasticated like mine, you'll need to try the trousers on to work out where your buttons should be positioned once the elastic is stretched during wear.

10. Finish your braces

Try on your trousers with the bib attached and find a comfortable length for your braces.

Cut them to length (plus a little bit extra for seam allowance) and sew a button hole close to the end of each one.


Turn the raw edges inside, pin and top stitch closed.

11. Sew the buttons for your braces

To attach your braces, sew 2 buttons to the inside of the waistband of your trousers. I measured mine so each sits 6cm from the centre back.

12. You have overalls!

Button your bib and braces in and out for a multi-functional garment. My boyfriend kindly waited till we left the house to tell me that I look like a minion when I wear mine with this yellow blouse - minion colour combo is optional.


I hope this tutorial is helpful if you're planning to sew your own overalls - please let me know, and I'd love to see pictures too! You can catch me on social media on the links below, and if you have any questions, just let me know in the comments :)



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