An almost year in sewing...

Dressmmaking
Happy New Sewing Year everyone! I hope everyone has had a wonderful festive season - I'm writing this one from my bed rather than the sewing station.

It's been just under a year since I started channeling my crafting and general need to be creative into it's best possible use - dressmaking! Making a serious commitment to sewing and starting up this blog was probably my best decision of 2014, so I thought I would do a bit of a round up of some of my favourite sews from the past year.


Most Worn Garment of 2014
My first Megan dress from Tilly Walne's Love at First Stitch is BY FAR my most worn me-made garment. Anyone who has read my blog will know how much I love Tilly's first book, and I encourage anyone who hasn't already got a copy to snap one up!



This dress is also pretty special because it was the first thing I made on my brand new sewing machine - a grown up Janome! - which was a massive upgrade from the tiny half-size one I was making with previously. I used the jazzy John Lewis 'Modern Animal' fabric and drafted a collar for the Megan dress to make it a bit more 'me', and now it's my go-to dress. Day/work/night out, it get's thrown on whenever!
Read the blog post here.


Most Made Pattern of 2014
When I was writing this post I was looking over my blog and couldn't quite believe how much I'd made, but my most made pattern was easily the Simple Sew Lottie blouse. Since I got the pattern free in an early issue of Love Sewing magazine, I've made it up 5 times.



My first version was this sleeveless poppy print one. I found the instructions a bit on the sparse side, but really liked the finished blouse. With a bit of tweaking to the making process - and a lot of practice - I've just about mastered the Lottie and can put the whole thing together in an evening now!
Here are the other versions - a couple for me and a couple were made as gifts for friends.









And my favourite so far is the newest one (above), made especially for the festive period (though I imagine it will get a lot more wear in the future if I can pass it off as my groovy 70s disco blouse). The fabric was £3 a metre from the brand new B&M Fabrics shop on the edge of Leeds Kirkgate market and I LOVE IT!


Biggest Sewing Achievement of 2014
I think I'm going to go with my self-drafted dress. It's been my biggest project so far - so big that I'm still tackling the final version, but it's well on it's way now! I drafted the pattern whilst taking evening classes at the local College of Art, and it's definitely taken more work, patience and brain power than anything I've ever made before. 





This version is the finished bodice and tulip sleeves with a simple gathered skirt. I'm just putting together a wearable muslin of the final pattern, with a fancy skirt and everything. I'll no doubt be posting about it in 2015, but here's a sneaky peak of it (jazzy fabric as ever)...



And finally, a few sewing resolutions
  • Keep sewing and keep blogging!
  • Make things that I'll actually wear - no un-finished or un-worn garments in 2015
  • Take part in Me Made May
  • Make my own pants
  • ...and maybe get an overlocker

Here's to a great New Year full of sewing!

Seasonal Stitching

finished project
I've been so absorbed in the self-drafted sewing that it feels like I haven't finished anything in forever! So having come to the end of my 10 week pattern drafting course, my pattern is just about ready to make, well, at least in wearable muslin form before I commit to cutting into the good stuff - some glorious teal green crepe I picked up from the new Sew Over It shop in Islington. I thought it would be nice to have a bit of a breather before I launch into the final thing, so mull all the wine and get the tinsel out - I whizzed up a dress for December!



I used the Simple Sew skater dress pattern that came free with issue 8 of Love Sewing magazine (my mum picks me up a copy if she likes the free pattern ha, thanks mum!) I really liked the Lottie blouse pattern that came free with a past issue and made a few versions of it. , They are, by definition, simple patterns, so I thought I'd give it a go.





I bought a medium-weight (Santa) red viscose jersey from my favourite B&M Fabrics in Leeds Kirkgate Market. I've worked in lightweight fabrics with a tiny bit of stretch before, but this was my first big leap into the world of proper stretch fabric, and I loved it! It took me a bit of faffing with my sewing machine manual and some needle changes, but it was otherwise completely pain free. Plus the fabric is so easy to work with - the seams barely needed finishing *cough* lazy sewist *cough*.



Now I don't know if it's just me, but my completed dress isn't quite what I was expecting from the magazine cover image and the illustration on the pattern. I realised pretty early on - but too late to do anything about it - that the dress might be a bit on the short side of knee length, but oh, it's short. I also found that the pattern could do with a bit more length in the bodice too - at least for me. I ended up using a smaller seam allowance at the waist and doing the narrowest hem possible, just to lengthen it in any way I could.



So I was a bit disappointed as I was really looking forward to a voluminous, flowing, knee-length, jersey skirt. The felt blanket-stitched holly brooch was actually my dramatic last ditch attempt to 'salvage' what I had originally branded a 'festive fail' ha. Anyway, I wore the dress in the house and swished the skirt around for a little while and came round to it in the end. 



Despite a few gripes here, there are actually things I really like about this dress and I'll probably make it again with a few adjustments.

The fab bits:
  • I love the V-back! I've never considered ermm getting my back out, but it sort of works!
  • I think it would look fab as a day or evening dress depending on the fabric used (but I'm now a jersey convert so sticking to that)
  • It has offers plenty of room to get creative - pockets, trims, a fancy lining maybe?
Changes for next time:
  • Add at least 1 inch to the bodice and taper the pattern down from a size 12 to a 10 at the waist.
  • Add a good 4 inches (maybe more!) to the hem - I'm such a prude!
  • Finish the neckline better. My mind was in simple sew mode and I completely forgot to interface my facings, massive oops!


Here's a selfie of me, full of Christmas joy and ready to eat my advent calendar Santa.
Is #SeasonalSew already a hashtag or sewist initiative? If it is, then GREAT. If not... then lets get the ball rolling, it's nearly Christmas!

I'm hoping to use the next couple of weeks to make my self-drafted dress and catch up on a bit of knitting in between the Christmas shopping and parties - hopefully a bit of blogging in there somewhere too.

Merry festive season!

Self-drafted sewing

Emery

So this post is about something I've been working on for quite a while and I'm really excited to share... My very first self-drafted sew! I mentioned that I was going to an evening course in pattern drafting a little while back, and this is my first finished garment - a sort of wearable muslin and product of the pattern pieces I've been working on.



It's by no means perfect, and the final garment I'm working towards will probably look quite different, but it has princess seams, pleats and petal sleeves and I'm pretty proud of it (try saying that after a glass of vino ha!)



The course is very self directed. I just took along a mood board in the first week and ended up using one of the dresses as my main inspiration (the one in the middle on the right hand page, I think it might be Viven of Holloway). It has quite a vintage feel and a few features and techniques that made it interesting and just the right amount of a challenge to draft.



I had to start off with the very basics, so I made my own bodice block. A block is a basic pattern piece that you make using your measurements to perfectly fit you. It took a few muslins and tweaks to get right, but it will be really useful as a starting point to have and work from. Some of the others in the class made personal blocks, and it was really interesting to see how different they all looked! My front bodice differed massively in size to my back - no wonder I've ended up trimming down the centre back seams on a fair few of my makes! It's all starting to make sense...

 By using the block, and playing with it in both paper and fabric form, I managed to work out and create all the extra features - of course I had the help and support of the wonderful tutor too! Let me show you some of the pattern details...




 I removed that humongous breast-accommodating dart on the front bodice in favour of a princess seam. I usually avoid princess seams because the prospect of adjusting them to fit my bust fills me with dread, but now I have a block it's easy peasy! I took the princess seams all the way though the back bodice too so they match nicely at the shoulder seam. Then, like my inspiration image, I added this neat little pleat on the outside shoulder.



I opened up the neckline and took it into a shallow v shape, which is actually really flattering. Much to my tutor's umm... disgust.... I top-stitched the neckline. I don't think it's so bad to be honest, but in what felt like true Project Runway style, he said that the top-stitching 'absolutely killed it' (and not in a good way haha). Following this, I did get shown how to properly draft and apply a facing, and how to understitch so you never get a peek of it from the outside. Never going to attempt dodgy topstitching again!



On the plus side, the tutor did say that my concealed zip was excellently executed - hooray! Even I can't believe how well I matched all the seams!
I drafted basic sleeves from a ready-made block, and then from that, worked them into two pieces to form a petal. There's a small box pleat on top to add fullness, and a couple of small pleats in there. I love the sleeves, but they feel just a little bit tight in the back when the dress is being worn. I think I need to make them a little bigger (cut and spread technique maybe..?) and slightly gather then into the back bodice to add a bit of ease.
For this version, I added just a very basic gathered skirt which was roughly based on the Emery skirt. I'm working on drafting a wrap pencil skirt for the final version of the dress, which I'll hopefully be making up in the next few weeks. I'm imaging it in a lovely emerald green wool crepe...
So in all, I'm pretty pleased with my first self drafted dress! I've learnt a lot along the way and still have a few things to tweak for the final version, but I'll definitely be wearing this one with pride :)

Northern Soul inspired sew

finished project
I got to spend a lovely few days in Manchester and Liverpool doing fun things last week. This obviously required a new dress - a second, and again, slightly modified Megan dress from Tilly Walne's Love at First Stitch.



I bought the fabric quite a while ago with the Megan in mind. To be honest, I don't normally wear white. In fact, I avoid buying pale coloured clothes and fabric all together so I don't have to put a white wash on (ha!). I just had one of the moments in the fabric shop where you just picture an amazing version of a pattern coming to life. It's a poly cotton with a slight bit of stretch to it, and like my last Megan, that stretch and movement really helps the fit. 



I had a bit of help inspiration-wise from a cinema trip to see Northern Soul. It really captures the sounds, styles and fashions of the era, and spurred me on to finally get this dress made!



The dress took no time at all to whip up. I'd made a few tweaks last time and stuck with these. There's an extra inch added to lengthen the bodice/stop those tucks getting lost under my bust just like before. This time I also took a centimetre off the centre back too. I've been doing a pattern drafting course in the evenings at art college, and it's helped me to realise that the amount of fabric I need at the back is significantly smaller than what I need to cover my front (Light bulb moment!).



I'm really pleased with the overall fit - it's probably a bit better and more comfortable than version 1. Also, of course, there's the added collar. Last time I drafted a Peter Pan collar, but this one definitely called for the pointed contrast collar. I based this one on the wonderful Emery collar that I can't stop swooning over!



I'm so pleased with the dress that I think I'm going to have to make more pale garments to make the white wash worth it! The polka dots and collar have just the right amount of impact. I'll be wearing this one as a day dress and for going out too!


An Orange Emery

Emery Dress
It's been a fairly slow and steady sew, but I've finally finished my first Emery dress. I've heard a lot of sewing blogger buzz around the Christine Haynes pattern, and I can definitely see why - I'm totally on board!



The buzz was only part of the reason why I snapped up the pattern though... I stopped by the lovely Ray Stitch (again) on a recent trip to London TO SEE KATE BUSH (!!!) - no big deal or anything - and there was a beautiful Emery made up and hanging in the window. Unfortunately I didn't have the pennies to buy the fabric too, but that's probably for the best, as my fabric stash (mountain) is ever growing. I didn't take a picture, but I here's their Instagram pic of it...



So suitably inspired, I set off with making my own. With the English winter setting in, I chose to make Version B. Oh and if you've read my other posts, you'll know I'm a big fan of a good collar. I chose a medium-weight, autumnal orange, poly cotton to make the dress in - nothing too fancy, I just had it lying around. I favour jumping straight in and having a go with fairly cheap fabric, rather than muslin making. This is bad I know, but most of the time I can do just a few tweaks and have a perfectly wearable garment.



I normally have very little patience for pattern marking, but I bought a nifty chalk wheel tool that makes drawing darts a breeze. I can't believe I've done without one for so long!



The making up process was quite straightforward. I cut a straight size 8 (think this equates to a UK size 12). It's probably a smidge tight at the bust - didn't do an FBA, risky business - but it's a pretty good fit overall. For my next Emery, I'll probably ease the side seam allowance to around 1cm at the bust instead of 1.5cm. A tiny bit more breathing room and then the fit will be spot on! The two small darts on the neckline of the back bodice are genius. I always seem to get gaping around the back neckline, but this is clearly the way to prevent it.



I wasn't so sure about the sleeves at first. I felt a bit like a little girl in her Sunday best. But I'm starting to come around to them, and there's always the option to shorten them for spring. I love everything else though, especially the dreamy neckline.



The dress itself has no bells, whistles or frills - I'm sure these could be added at the maker's discretion, along with the bow that the pattern provides instructions for - but it's one of those proper lovely, solid wardrobe-staples. I'll definitely be sewing up a few more - maybe I could use it for the next One Week One Pattern..? I'll be looking to the blogosphere for inspiration, especially to Roisin aka Dolly Clackett and her many Emery dresses - how does she churn them out?! Any Emery switch-ups and suggestions would be much appreciated!

In other news...
I mentioned in my last post that I was starting a dress making course, well it's in full swing! I'll save it for another time, but all I can say is that I'm working on something potentially very exciting - it'll be even more exciting if I can pull it off!



I've also been hoarding fabric like a crazy lady. I heard it down the grapevine that the Hebden Bridge WI Rag Market was the place to be, and it didn't disappoint. Here is just one of the fabric treasures I picked up...



The next Rag Market is in May 2015 and I would definitely recommend it!

Thanks for visiting!

Thanks for visiting!