FBA (formerly CBA) fathomed!

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Gone are the 'FBA hmmphh CBA' days... That's right, I've tackled the dreaded Full Bust Adjustment hooray!

It's only been just over a week since i last did any sewing, but I've been thinking about what I'll make next all along. I loved wearing my me-made Lilou dress on holiday. So much so, that I've jumped straight in with making a second. But first of all - and something I should do every time I make a bodice, considering my silly out-of-proportion bust measurement - I had to make a muslin (or toile).

I know the advice is there for a reason, but im just too impatient to make muslins for every garment. I tend not to use pricey fabrics either, so most projects feel like a practice anyway and just a happy accident when/if they work out. But if I'm really going to take dressmaking seriously, it's about time I gave the fit a bit more attention. 

I made my last Lilou in a straight size 3 but the bust darts sat a little too high and it all looked a bit ummm... strained up there. I used a fab tutorial from Megan Nielson's blog which you can find here.

All you have to work out is the difference on the pattern piece, between your bust measurement size and the size you would cut for the rest of your body. Not all that scary really. Mine was a size 3 on the body versus size 5 on the bust, so 2.5cm difference. You then use that measurement to draw your cut lines - again, 
really not so scary and definitely not as technical as it looks!

Once you've done all the cutting and wiggled it around a bit, you just tape another piece of pattern paper behind - I normally use thin greaseproof paper but accidentally bought this brown baking paper that seems closer to parcel paper, oops! It does the job I guess.

So I now have a supersized, and more accommodating bust dart hooray! I had to shuffle the other dart a little too as one of my cut lines chopped right through it - took an educated guess, but that's what a muslin's for isn't it?

I had so much of that £1 a metre striped fabric left from my trip to Walthamstow - and my last Lilou - that I thought I'd have a go using that. 

And just LOOK at that lovely full bust! (sorry sounding a bit creepy there).

Now without going as far as actually taking a picture of me and my bust wearing the muslin - I'm no prude, but hey, it's not that kind of blog, sorry - it's hard to demonstrate the new and improved proportions. I think the photograph below will have to do, though it's really not as pointy when on, promise.

Success! And a sneaky peak at my fabric haul from B&M Fabrics at Leeds Market the other day. I'm starting Lilou number 2 straight away, using one of these...

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  1. I made the mistake of not making a muslin. It was my first big sewing project, I was impatient. I ended up with major armhole gape due to my bust size. Luckily the fabric was from a thrift store table cloth, but I still wasted my time on it. Oh well. I foresee many full-bust adjustments in my future! (I'm just starting out sewing.) Good thing it doesn't look /too/ scary!

    1. It's not scary at all! I'd been putting off doing an FBA for ages and all my garments were OK but just a little bit off fit-wise. Would definitely recommend the tutorial on Megan Neilson's blog - so easy to follow! Good luck :)


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