A Modified Megan

Wednesday, August 06, 2014

In between hen dos, birthdays, weddings and babies (it's been a busy month!) something very exciting happened... I got a new sewing machine! I've been looking for the right one for a while, and I've finally upgraded from my little Janome half size to a grown up Janome model, much more appropriate for the amount of dressmaking I do.  


Having just finished my first project on the new and improved machine, I can't quite believe how I managed with the half size DMX100 Petite for so long. I'd recommend it for small crafts/bunting/etc, but the new machine is so much better for more complex projects. I feel like my sewing skills have improved no end - the things that technology can do eh?

A new machine called for some fancy fabrics. I bought these two in the John Lewis clearance, and although they weren't that cheap by my standards, it was totally worth it for the quality. The top one is called 'Modern Animal' - ooo-er. It's a 97% cotton, 3% spandex mix and absolutely perfect for making the Megan dress from Tilly Walne's Love at First Stitch. 


Using an unfamiliar machine and such lovely fabric meant that I couldn't really get away with not making a muslin. If you read my earlier posts, you'll probably know that I haven't got a lot of patience for that sort of thing, despite having a ridiculously out of proportion bust measurement that usually requires some sort of adjustment. I'm quite glad I made a muslin in the end, as I did have to make some small changes. The dart tucks under the bust actually work really well, but on me they sort of got lost in the wilderness of the under boob - see unflattering picture below, not great! - so I added an inch to the length of the bodice, bringing them a little bit closer to my waist.


The machine came with loads of different feet, I actually had to consult the instruction book to work out what I was doing! Once I'd got my bearings though, it was pretty simple. And I've now got the best finished seams around, thanks to the overcasting foot, which is pretty amazing! It lets you run a zig zag stitch right at the edge, and has a little notch to guide you down the fabric. I'd say this is the best way to finish a seam if you haven't got an overlocker - I haven't stepped up my game quite that much yet. 


My housemate suggested I modify the Megan dress to make it a bit more 'me' by adding a collar. There were times in the making where I wish I hadn't done this, but now it's finished I'm really glad I did. I drafted a peter pan shaped collar pattern which was roughly based on the Elegant Musings one that I spoke about here. I then basted it in place at the neckline, and sandwiched it between the facing. The fabric is pretty thick anyway, so no need to interface the collar. I was worried about the extra bulk, but some clever grading just about sorted it out. 


I had quite a big issue with fit when it came round to inserting the zip. I think it was in partly down to the fabric having a little bit of stretch, but really it was just a bit too big. Much to my despair, I had to spend an evening unpicking my beautifully inserted concealed zip - first one with a zipper foot too! - and cutting a good couple of inches off  at the centre back seam. The collar caused me great annoyance in this too as it ended up being too long for the corrected back seam. I ended up having to cut a fair bit off of that too, finishing it by folding the raw edges in and top stitching it closed.


I was very determined with this one though, and once I had the zip back in, I just knew I'd got the fit spot on. It was definitely worth the effort. The final push was setting in the sleeves. They have little gathers on the top, which made it a little bit tricky to sew, but definitely not unmanageable. I think they absolutely make the dress too, I love them.


And so finally, here's what I'm going to class as my first venture in to real-life, adult sewing machine, dressmaker territory: my finished, and slightly modified Megan Dress.



I've sang the praises of Tilly's patterns before, and the only difference with this one is that I probably love it a little bit more! This is the sort of dress that I want to wear all the time - when I'm at work, when I'm out for drinks - it's just fab. I'd recommend it for anyone, from beginner level to the advanced sewist, and as a bonus, it actually takes very little fabric - I have loads of this John Lewis stuff leftover to stash, which is definitely not a bad thing as I am very fond of it!

Next up, and still working my way through Love at First Stitch, is the one I've wanted to make for ages, and that is the Mimi blouse. Bring on the button holes!





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Shauni S

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14 comments

  1. Tilly7 August 2014 at 09:00

    Love love LOVE it! Cannot WAIT to see your Mimi blouse...

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  2. Unknown7 August 2014 at 10:27

    This is beautiful and looks so lovely on you. You have inspired me!

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  3. Jane7 August 2014 at 14:13

    Gorgeous! Love it with the collar too. x

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    1. Shauni S7 August 2014 at 22:49

      Thank you Jane :) I'm really happy with how it turned out! X

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  4. Unknown17 August 2014 at 11:25

    Absolutely LOVE this! I'm having issues with my current Megan dress - it's turned out too big and the zip is wonky! I may have to take it in at the back and sides! Love the Peter Pan collar too - did you draft it yourself or use a pattern?

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    1. Shauni S22 August 2014 at 00:03

      Thank you Cerian!! Yes mine was a little too big and that's where I ended up taking the zip out and reinserting. It was definitely worth it though. I drafted the collar myself but it was roughly based on the shape of one I made from the Elegant Musings blog a while ago. Hope you got your zip sorted! :)

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  5. Ashley cramp23 August 2014 at 12:39

    I love this version, well done for persevering ...stunning result, fab fabric too....bestest daisy j x

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    1. Shauni S24 August 2014 at 18:01

      Such a lovely comment! Thank you Daisy. Shauni x

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  6. Sewing Mum4 September 2014 at 20:07

    I love your Megan. Permission to copy your collar modification? I have just ordered some beauuuutiful Anna Maria Horner velveteen for my third version, as I love the pattern and want a warmer one in time for autumn/winter. I have stumbled across your blog at exactly the right time. Thank you for the inspiration! x

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    Replies
    1. Shauni S5 September 2014 at 00:31

      Thank you for the lovely comment! Definitely go for it with the collar modification - its very easy to add and really transforms the dress. Your fabric sounds amazing, I bet it will look fab! :) x

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    2. Anonymous20 November 2014 at 15:47

      Am I right in assuming that you added the facing and then folded that back to conceal the raw edges of the collar or am I missing something? I ask because I had the exact same idea for adding a collar but I've not done anything like this before and didn't want to mess it up.

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    3. Shauni S20 November 2014 at 20:40

      Hi! Yes, after basting the collar onto the dress you pin the facing on top of it (right sides together) stitch it, and turn it to the inside of the dress and press. All the raw edges get sandwiched inbetween. Understitching is really helpful (stitching the seam allowances to the facing) to stop the facing trying to peak out. Hope this helps! X

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    4. Anonymous20 November 2014 at 21:29

      You're an angel! That was pretty much what I was planning on doing but having confirmation that it works is fantastic! Thank you! <3

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