Closet Case Patterns Nettie Dress

Tuesday, February 20, 2018

This might be considered a crime to dressmaking, but I had completely overlooked the Closet Case Patterns Nettie Dress & Bodysuit until very recently. To be honest, I don't really see the need for crotch poppers in my life (or gusset) and as I'm not a huge fan of the scoop neck/back, I'd let it pass me by, only realising that combining the high neck and high back was actually one of the pattern's options after seeing Helen's fab version! I'm four makes into my #2018makenine already, so naturally when temptation presented itself in the perfect pairing of pattern and fabric, it felt about time to venture off plan...

My first (and definitely not last) Nettie Dress!
I don't often sew with knits, but I was keen to invest some time in learning to work with them better, and create some tighter fitting clothes. I've seen this seventies-vibe rib knit from Stof & Stil pop up on Instagram a few times and knew it would make the exact Nettie I needed in my life! I greedily and excitedly bought both colourways - heads up, the other is still on sale, plus see Rosie's amazing turtleneck made in it here. It was the first time I'd ordered from Stoff & Stil and I was really impressed - quick delivery, and they sticker up each fabric with a care label and fibre break down. This one is a combo of polyester, viscose and elastane and is labelled as having a shrinkage wash of 3% (I didn't pre wash as I'm a risk-taking maker, but it's washed just fine post-sew).

Extreme stripe matching!
The fabric is really stretchy and has a great recovery, plus it's thick enough to cover lumps, bumps and knicker lines. I spent loads of time lining the stripes up before cutting and found that it was a surprisingly stable fabric to lay out, cut and work with (having used some really dodgy knits in the past)!

Also more new shoes, because you can never have enough...?
My only problem with the fabric, and quite a big one, is that the ribbing makes it deceivingly stretchy. I was excited to find that Nettie is drafted with 'negative ease' something I've not particularly noticed with knits I've sewn up before - finally a knit that turns out close fitting! - but the amount of ease still hinges on the stretch in your choice of fabric. I added 8.5" to the length; cutting a size 10 and grading to an 8 for the waist and hips, but ended up with an insane amount of excess in the finished garment, which I think can mostly be put down to the fabric.

Stripe match still fairly strong post-taking in
Nearly matched stripes...
The curve of the hip into the thigh was way too severe for my twiggy thighs, so I took a good 4" around the hips and about 2" at the waist, grading into the bust. The result is a much better fit, but there's a bit too much width across the upper back. Otherwise, the fit on the neckline and shoulders is ok! I've since double checked my measurements and found I could downsize to an 8, grading to a 6 at the hips, but I'll probably redraw the curve of the thigh to suit my body shape better too (and of course, better consider the stretch of the fabric I'm using).

Back view, with a bit of excess on the upper back
I really played with my machine and overlocker settings; adjusting the presser foot pressure and using a walking foot to try and get things right with this particular knit, and apart from my slightly wobbly hems, it worked out well! I also can't believe I'm saying this, but I braved using a twin needle for THE VERY FIRST TIME to finish the Nettie's neckband and hems. It was so easy to thread up and use that I don't even know how I got the idea that it might ever be difficult! No looking back for future knits!

Twin needle finished neckband!
Thank you Chris for the ever-patient photography
Despite a couple of hiccups, I'm really pleased with the finished dress and will be making it again as soon as I track down the perfect fabric (similar to my mad Lander Pant fit-quest, I feel on a mission to get the fit nailed). The bold stripes make such a simple garment look like so much more than 'just a basic' and I know it will get a lot of wear.

Big smiles for Nettie!
As a bonus, I feel much more confident in approaching knits from investing that bit of extra time in making this dress. I'm even feeling brave enough to go straight into sewing up the other colourway of this fabric... question is, should I use it for another size-tweaked Nettie, or the new Nikko Dress by True Bias (which actually recommends rib knits)! What would you do?


Stay in touch!


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12 comments

  1. This fabric is awesome!! I hope my next stop in at a physical Stoff&Stil leaves me with something just as beautiful.
    The Nettie is the perfect silhouette for such an interesting stripe!

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    1. Thank you! If only I had a physical Stoff & Stil nearby... (it's actually probably best for my finances that I don't)! xx

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  2. Wowsers! Your dress is amazing, and I absolutely love that fabric.

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    1. Thank you Lynne! I couldn't help myself when it came to the fabric - the colours are perfect!

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  3. brilliant choice of fabric- looks fantastic (love the boots too!)

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    1. Thank you Eimear :) I'm pretty pleased with how well the boots pair with this fabric - particularly as I have leftovers!

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  4. Your Nettie looks fantastic Shauni!It sounds like you handled the fabric really well because the fit looks great with the tweaks you did.
    Love those new boots by the way ;)

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    1. Thank you Diane! I've just made a Nikko top with the leftover fabric and it definitely is deceptively stretchy! Luckily I'm a whizz at taking in now :) And thanks - I'm loving fitting the boots in with my wardrobe!

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  5. I think you should go for the Nikko! I like this one on you (for sure the fabric really makes it!) but adding the Nikko to your wardrobe will give you even more options in the future :) You just suit this silhouette so beautifully I think you should stay on this bandwagon!

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    1. Thanks Kathleen! I had a go at the Nikko top with the leftovers from this and it worked really well - though it's still too stretchy... I think I'll be going with your Nikko suggestion for the other colourway too, just need to be wary that I might have to downsize!

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