Pretty Mercerie Sayan Blouse

Tuesday, December 11, 2018

You know those patterns that you see and just have to have? The Pretty Mercerie Sayan Blouse is one of them - maybe the one for me. It didn't matter that the instructions were in French, there was no PDF option available and the postage was close to astronomical: after seeing this version by @lamaisonsixchouettes I was totally sold. And after making it I can confidently say I have no regrets!
Pretty Mercerie Sayan Blouse
My pattern arrived quickly and was beautifully packaged, which softened the blow of international postage. I muddled my way through the instructions with the help of the Google Translate app, which translates the text it identifies in the pictures you take. This was smooth in the majority, particularly considering that 'sewing speak' doesn't always translate so well! The construction is fairly straightforward and the illustrations are a great help, so confident makers could probably just go ahead without the instructions.

Pretty packaging
Inside the pattern envelope
I tend to find that I span a range of sizes with French pattern companies. I also find that the sizing can run quite small. For reference in this case, my measurements are 91-72-93, putting me right across 3 different sizes - a 40 at the bust, between a 38/40 at the waist and a 42 for the hips. I traced a straight size 40 for ease, and because the blouse looked fairly loose fitting. This was definitely the right choice, but as a word of warning, the waist through to hips is a bit more fitted than I anticipated. Though I'll mostly be wearing mine tucked in, it would sit better when untucked if I'd graded it out from the waist - something I'd probably do in future!


Off the back of this, there was a bit of a discussion on Instagram about the often limited size range of French pattern companies. Pretty Mercerie chipped in offering apologies for their currently limited 34 - 46 size range. This pattern is a part of their first pattern collection and they indicated that they were testing the waters a bit, but said that they're trying their best to offer a more inclusive size range, English instructions and a PDF version ASAP, which is promising.

Worn with my Ready to Sew Juliette

This deep bottle green, fluid viscose has been in my stash for ages. In fact, it was originally allocated to making the DP Studio Le 915 as a part of my 2018 make nine, which hasn't yet materialised, so at least it's being put to use! The fabric is quite light, so well suited for some of the more delicate design features of the Sayan. I'm not sure if it's the language barrier, but I couldn't see any suggestion of using interfacing in the pattern instructions. I'd class this as an essential for a crisp, professional finish, so cut pieces for the front facing, one of the collar pieces, and a pair for the cuffs.

Cuff detailing!
I rarely sew shirts as I worry I don't have the precision to pull off the finer details such as cuffs and plackets, but my need to make the Sayan outweighed my regular avoidance tactics. The only bit that confused me was understanding the Google translation for making the sleeve plackets. I half followed the instructions and half made them from memory - though I'm sure there are plenty of YouTube tutorials out there to help - and the results are good enough for me!

Cuffs and button holes

When I commit to things I'd usually avoid, I don't do them by halfs, so I made 8 matching self cover buttons. Pressing them closed hurt my hands/fingers so much that I had to do them in two sittings, but they do make for a real professional finish. Does anyone have the magic trick for non-painful button covering? I took real time with my buttonholes; practicing, measuring and marking them out and using loads of fray check. I probably didn't breath for the whole length of time I was cutting them open either, but phew, I'd go as far as saying I think they're the buttonholes of my life.



I noticed a couple of missing notches for the tie belts, but the positioning is easy to work out. Other than that, the make was a breeze and it's filled me with confidence in my abilities to approach other makes that I'd ordinarily avoid. Despite the small hurdles - mainly me not understanding French - I would 100% recommend the pattern and would definitely be up for trying more Pretty Mercerie patterns in future. It looks like they've actually just released 4 new patterns and I'm very tempted by the Yokohama Coat.

Anthropologie inspo
I LOVE my finished Sayan Blouse and can see myself wearing it again and again, whether I'm trying to look smart for work, or dressed down with it layered over a turtleneck. I saw these two blouses in Anthropologie and they've definitely got future-Sayan written all over them, particularly the one with D-rings at the tie! Question is, what colour shall I choose for the next?


Stay in touch!



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10 comments

  1. no tips for tiny button covering, but if I had to do them I would check on if there was a button cover-er anywhere near. There used be a few when I lived in Dublin so I am sure there should still be some you can post off to. The small covered buttons really finish off a blouse so well. Stunning blouse and so beautifully finished. Well wear

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    1. Thanks Eimear - I hadn't thought of that but they were so tricky to make, I can definitely see the appeal! Thanks so much for the lovely comment :)

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  2. I second the other commenter about finding a place that covers buttons for you. They can deal with a wider variety of fabrics and I find that the buttons themselves feel a lot sturdier than the ones from diy kits! I had a few coat buttons covered with wool coating a while ago and they were amazing, but this was in Belgium.

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    1. Hi Anneke - yes I definitely need to look into this! I'm not sure if mine will survive in the long run so having better quality buttons is a selling point :)

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  3. I'm so glad Pretty Mercerie is considering PDF patterns. I love their estethic, but I haven't been able to get over the shipping costs! Your blouse looks so great and I love the colour!

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    1. Thank you Magdel! I actually prefer PDF patterns as I hate tracing, but this one felt worth it :) Fingers crossed they launch PDFs as there are some nice patterns in their latest collection too!

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  4. Oh my goodness, your blouse is absolutely gorgeous!! Those cuffs, that collar!!! You did a brilliant job. Re the buttons, I find the Prym ones are the easiest to work with, not a big fan of the Hemline ones.

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    1. Thanks Lynne! This colour and style actually made me think of you :) Thanks for the button tip - I'm learning there are definitely some notions you shouldn't scrimp on x

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  5. Oh wow, this is so lovely. Like if Gillian Anderson was also a Countess. No tips for covered buttons, I've never gotten them to work myself! Hot glue may featured the one time I tried...

    That tomato red with the D-rings would be beautiful!

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    1. Thank you Lia! Haha I could see how the frustration could lead to the glue gun getting involved!!

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