The Good Grab Bin Buying Guide ft. the True Bias Nikko

fabric buying
Can you make a bad fabric good? When I'm not sewing leftovers, I'm a keen rescuer of the questionable fabrics that I'm sometimes drawn to - mainly the grab bin variety. This textured black velour is a prime example of one of those weird need to haves. It's sort of ugly and full of imperfections, but something about it just begged to be liberated from the bottom of the pile in Manchester Abakhan. A luxe True Bias Nikko Dress sprung to mind, working with the vertical stripe texture of the velour.

Luxe True Bias Nikko Dress in bargain garb bin velour
When I pulled the length of fabric from the grab bin, I realised that the stripe (and with it, the main stretch) ran horizontally rather than vertically as I'd hoped. It had a few faults too, where the texture looked squashed out of shape. Whilst I'm not one to promote over buying, in some cases it's good to have spare fabric, particularly if you're buying 'seconds' or worried about quality. In this case, I took home just over 3m for £8 - enough to 'work around' the dodgy bits and to try something else if my plans for a vertical stripe Nikko were scuppered by the stretch. 


I used the fabric stretch guide on the Nikko, and although it didn't quite reach the recommended 75% (it was probably closer to 50%), I thought it was worth the risk of cutting on the cross grain. As with my previous Nikko, I cut a size 6, grading to a 2 at the waist and out to a 4 again at the hips. Knowing there would be tears if I couldn't fit it over my head (this has definitely happened before with some of my Nikko Tops made from stretchier fabric!) I cut the neckband on the less-risky straight grain, meaning the stripes run horizontally. 

Side shot
Back view
In the end, I found that the fabric had enough stretch to fit (I was a bit worried it would turn out tiny!). It was actually the lack of bounce back/recovery that presented more of an issue in getting the right fit. I had to take the dress in a couple of times to get the perfect comfortable-yet-close fit around the waist and hips. 


This is a pattern is so made for tall makers - something I already knew about from last time. The weight of the velour seemed to make this version look even longer. I took 3" from the length and took the side split up by 3" too, though I'd be tempted to take the split up a little further next time.

Spot the fabric faults!
In all I'm really pleased with how this Nikko turned out - definitely my best version yet! I didn't totally manage to miss the imperfections of the fabric - something the eagle-eyed amongst you may have spotted - but I think this sort of adds to the charm of it. It fits well, it's made to a higher standard than most high street garments, so who cares if there are a few dodgy creases here and there? After making it, I realised that Anthropologie are stocking loads of RTW clothes in similar fabrics at the minute - 'on trend' at a cost of about a twentieth of the price of the average Anthro dress can only be a winner.

I've always been quite restrained in my fabric buying, but even more so recently. Despite the low price of this length of fabric, I asked myself a lot of questions before committing to buying it. Here's a little guide for good grab bin buying for anyone else who feels like they need to check themselves before sticking the bargains in their basket:


I'm really interested to hear people's thoughts on this. Do you find it easy to be restrained when bargains present themselves, or are you the first to put them in your basket?

Feeling luxe and fancy in my <£5 dress
I always knew I would have some leftovers, but cutting this project on the cross grain meant that I used much less fabric than anticipated. It gives quite a basic dress a real luxurious feel to it - I even wore this dress to my friend's wedding last week! Party season is almost upon us, so this is definitely something I'm hoping to replicate with the leftovers, in either a pair of wide leg trousers or even a jumpsuit at a push! Bring on the #sewingleftovers!

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Body confidence and 'braving' the Nikko Dress

body confidence
As someone who's barely worn a t-shirt since being a teenager, I've been finding it difficult to judge what knits will sit well on the body and which ones are the best to work with for each project. I remember the horrors of clinging high street knits all too well, so I want to get it right as I amp up my sewing with stretch. After making the True Bias Nikko Top (in a slightly too stretchy rib knit - see here) and seeing the amazing fit Kate from The Fold Line achieved with hers in grey, I decided imitation (*cough* outright copying) was a sure fire way to get it right.

True Bias Nikko Dress
I used the exact grey marl viscose jersey from Fabrics Galore that Kate used for hers. If it hadn't been for the recommendation, I would have probably let it pass me by, thinking it was too lightweight for a project like this. When it arrived, I was still worried that the fabric was too light and also slightly see through when held up, but I went with it in the effort of honing my not-quite-there-yet jersey-judgement, and it worked!

In sunny Hebden Bridge-post Rag Market
The Nikko dress has a slightly more relaxed fit from the waist down, which I didn't think would be the most flattering fit for me, so I made some slight adjustments to get a closer fit at the waist. I cut a size 6 at the neckline and bust, grading down to a 2 at the waist and out to a 4 at the hips. I also took the split seams and hem up by 3" (I'm 5ft 6" for reference, so this is a long dress). Just like the top, it's a very quick and easy make and the instructions are easy to follow.


Whilst my Nikko Dress has turned out close fitting in the way I intended it to be, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't just a little self conscious when wearing it. The fabric is spot on, if not a little clingy, and using plain grey has made for an unintentionally bold finish. From some angles I feel totally statuesque, and from others... more like the fifth (grey) teletubby. I definitely like the finished dress more than not though and really want to get wear out of it, so I guess I've got no option other than to try and own it.

Less into this angle...
Wearing it with a slip does reduce some of the cling and skims the underwear lines a bit. I also think I might feel a bit more comfortable by breaking the block colour up. I had a black leather jacket on before taking these pictures and felt great, so I think I might just need to wear something over the top, like a loose button up shirt (actually that's a good excuse to make one - I'm thinking khaki will fit in nicely with the rest of my wardrobe)!

Thanks Mum for patiently waiting for the walkers and cyclists to pass to take these
I'm not an un-body confident sort of person, but it is a dress that I feel like I need to 'brave' to an extent. It's quite difficult putting yourself/body out there in a silhouette you're not quite used to - even if the only person who really knows it or cares is you. It is a lovely pattern, so I am determined to integrate the Nikko into my wardrobe, to the point where I don't have to feel brave to put it on. Points if you spot me, head held high looking positively statuesque in my big grey Nikko!


Has anyone else had similar feelings about 'braving' wearing certain garments?

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