Another RTW rip off: Rise Turtleneck hack

Thursday, January 19, 2017

Another week, another RTW item to rip off (*I mean make my own version of). This time the inspiration came in the form of a knit top from Finery, a mostly online brand that sells some pretty interesting garments in terms of shape and fabric combos. The top was £65, so not quite as steep as the inspiration for last week's Sahara Shirt, but still pricey, especially when you consider how not-too-far-away it is in style from the Papercut Patterns Rise/Fall Turtleneck pattern.

A Papercut Patterns Rise Turtleneck hack!

The inspiration, c/o Finery
With just a few splices to the front pattern piece, the Rise Turtleneck served as the perfect starting point for a hack. I traced the front out so it could be cut as one rather than on the fold, then drew a 'channel' on one side and cut down the lines. This split the front into 3 pattern pieces (remembering that the long straight edges of each piece needed a 1cm seam allowance adding at cutting). I also extended the length by 12cm so there was plenty room for the top to be ruched up, and added a couple of inches to the sleeve length. In hindsight, I wish I'd have cut the Fall Turtleneck's neckband instead, but I'll keep this in mind for next time.

Edits to the front pattern piece
I cut 2 of the 'channel' pieces and sewed them together to the new main front and side front pattern pieces. Something I didn't work out until later: it helps with hemming if the top channel piece is shorter - I had to do a bit of unpicking, turn it up and restitch the seams. I made a long tie that was threaded up the channel so that it just poked out at the shoulder, and sewed it into the shoulder seam in the usual steps for construction.

Ribbed jersey from Fabworks
I used a mid-weight mauve ribbed jersey from Fabworks - they have loads of great colours in this at the minute! It worked pretty well, but had more stretch than fabrics I've used with this pattern in the past. The extra stretch, combined with the fact that I may have misjudged the seam allowance markers on my (still very new-to-me) overlocker, meant that the finished thing came out pretty big. I did a LOT of taking in - I've had to take the sides in when I've made this pattern in the past, but never this much! The shoulders still sit slightly too wide, but at least it's wearable!

Pre-hemming
After all that, I very nearly ruined it at the last hurdle - the hemming. Everything I tried seemed to stretch the fabric out in an unsightly wobble. I used my walking foot and a ball point needle, tried straight stitch and stretch stitch, but still no luck. What would everyone else recommend in this situation? In the end, I had to cut off a first attempt, and do a very narrow zig zag with the walking foot, but it's still a bit wavy.

Up close
As an experiment, I'd say it's not turned out too badly overall. I definitely have a few changes that I'd try next time, the first one being to use the Fall neckband. I'd move the channel over so it sits closer to the neck - all that taking in was sucking it further and further towards the side seam - and maybe I'll go full hog and copy the split sleeves too! Colour wise, I'm not sure it's the most flattering on me, but maybe that's because I'm so used to wearing black... hopefully it will grow on me.

Worn with a recently shortened skirt I made way way back!
I'm really enjoying seeking out inspiration from the shops. Having a definite idea of what I'm creating really spurs me on, and being able to recreate something you wanted is so so satisfying! Now to go (window) shopping to seek out what's next!

Thanks Chloe and Lucy for taking snaps in the Stitch Up shop


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14 comments

  1. Wow! I really like this top! Great job! I am also very insecure when I am sewing on the serger, I need to measure where I need to put my knife to get the good SA.

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    1. Thank you Camelia! I'm glad it's not just me... I've not quite worked out my SA markers yet. Hopefully next time :)

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  2. Wow- this is fabulous!! Bookmarking it to copy ;-) I saw a similar RTW shirt, but the channel went at angle across the body. That could get complicated, though.

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    1. Thank you Meg - I look forward to seein yours! I like the idea of a cross body channel, but have a feeling that could either turn out very well or very bad... Definitely going to make a second version with a few tweaks now I've given it a go though :) x

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  3. Brilliant....love it - really fine job

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  4. Fab copy, I love the style of it and think you did a great job.

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    1. Thank you Lynsey! Hoping version 2 will work out even better :) x

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  5. That's brilliant! What a great hack.

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  6. Looks great Shauni! I like the colour on you too. So impressed with your RTW knock offs!

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    1. Thanks Hayley! It's the first time in ages that I've seen loads of RTW clothes I actually really like - good job for my bank balance that I can sew! :) x

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  7. It looks fab. I am tempted to have a go myself! Re the wavey hem... I often use a double sided wash away tape called Wonder Tape for tricky hems or even seams. Works a treat!

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    1. Thanks Tamsin! You should try it - I'm definitely going to have a go at a second. And thanks so much for the tip! I'll definitely employ it next time I meet a tricky fabric :)

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