Perfecting the waistband
Monday, May 01, 2017
Sooo since making my first pair, I've been completely hooked on the fly-waisted trouser. This is the 4th pair I've made so far from this vintage magazine pattern, but only the third for myself, so we'll call it third time lucky, because I think I've finally managed to perfect a non-creasing, insanely crisp waistband!
Vintage pattern trousers with Papercut Patterns Fall Turtleneck |
Tips for a sturdy waistband
- You can buy fusible interfacing with fold lines, made specifically for waistbands. Thanks nelnanandnora for drawing my attention to this!
- Try making waistbands in two parts rather than folding them, and apply interfacing to just the outer band (suggested by both karenjkayes and janediana1010)
- Cut the waistband along the fabric grain (where the fabric is stronger) rather than across it (suggested by jennyprice1245).
- Using petersham ribbon - traditionally used on mens tailored trousers - to stiffen waistbands was one of the most popular recommendations, suggested by paper_theory, dream.cut.sew, Lynsey Jane and Elaine and Di from the Dressmaking Bloggers Network.
- More flexible lighter-weight interfacings (e.g. tricot/knit interfacing, even for wovens) can allow the fabric to bounce back from creasing better (a favourite solution of Katie of What Katie Sews).
- Katie also always makes a curved waistband instead of straight so it better conforms to the body - something which makes a hell of a lot of sense when you think about it!
- To help with structure, under-stitching your facing and top-stitching all the way round are pretty vital (and something I'm usually guilty of skipping). Thanks Purfylle for that one!
Side view - love the pockets! |
After reading through the recommendations, I bought some petersham from my local haberdashery, Samuel Taylors. You can buy it in lots of different widths, so I could pick one that would perfectly slot inside my folded waistband (remember to take seam allowances into account too when picking your width). They also stocked fusible interfacing for folding waistbands so I bought some of that too.
Fusible folding waistband interfacing and petersham |
Waistband with interfacing applied |
Inserting the petersham before slipstitching the waistband closed |
Topstitched and finished! |
This waistband is solid. At the point of writing this, the trousers have seen a fair bit of wear, and the waistband has withstood plenty of sitting down and at least a couple of big meals. I'm amazed to see how crisp and tailored they still look.
In future, I'll probably just stick with the petersham and a topstitched finish for trousers and heavy-duty garments, but I was really impressed with the folding interfacing. I'd be likely to try that out again with lighter weight garments and skirt waistbands that don't require quite as much support.
Petersham where have you been all my (sewing) life?! I'm currently considering unpicking all other waistbands and giving them the petersham-treatment, but I might save that for another day. You can purchase the stuff online from Minerva and Sew Essential.
From the back |
Thanks Chris for taking pictures :) |
Hebden Bridge Rag market haul |
If you have any other waistband tips, please let me know in the comments and I'll update this post to include them :) Hope they're of help to someone else!
Stay in touch!
8 comments
Great finish! Just recently Morgan over at Thread Theory posted a tutorial on waistbands too, similar to the petersham method she used (I think) ban roll just slipped inside the waistband. Worth a read.
ReplyDeleteYes that's the stuff! Thanks for pointing it out :) x
DeleteVery interesting, I have a skirt where these is a real issue that irritates me. When you add the petersham, is it literally just sandwiched in between without being sewn to either the front of the waistband or the facing?
ReplyDeleteThanks! Yes you just sandwich the petersham between the layers of your waistband without sewing it. Once Your waistband is closed, you can then topstitch around it to hold the petersham on the inside in place - really can't believe how well it works! :)
DeleteThis is a really useful article. I made some culottes last year and haven't worn them much due to the waistband. I am definitely going to look at this when I make some trousers this year. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jo! I have a few pairs of culottes that might be getting the petersham treatment soon too :)
DeleteGreat round up of tips for waistbands and I love this pair. So well-fitting and stylish!
ReplyDeleteI have only made one pair of tailored trousers (http://carolinejoynson.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/cigarette-pants-success.html)
but I have been put off slightly as my waistband has stretched significantly over time & wear. It maybe worth me unpicking and adding some petersham ribbon to them.
Awesome haul from the WI in Hebden Bridge - I can't wait to see what you make from them!
Thanks Caroline, I'm so pleased with how they turned out! Your trousers look great - would definitely recommend the petersham treatment if you're looking to get more wear out of them. I'm thinking of doing the same to a bunch of my trousers/culottes.
DeleteDid really well at Hebden Bridge and got some great summer sewing plans lined up :) x