A very ambitious V9186

finished project
Just when I was beginning to feel a bit deflated sewing-wise (see last post) the perfect project to pick me up landed in a nice parcel on the doorstep. When Lucy from Sew Essential got in touch last month to see if I'd like to make something using their supplies, I was on a shirt-making high post-Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt, so this heavily influenced my pattern and fabric choice. I'm feeling very much back in the game thanks to the Vogue 9186 (and Lucy!):

The finished V9186  
I sometimes struggle to see past the cover versions with the big 4 pattern companies, and although I'm not 100% on the two options here, the details of the dress intrigued me. The mandarin collar I already know I love (see again, my Sahara Shirt edit), but it's the cool silhouette that the elasticized waist provides that really sold it. I've also never felt confident enough to brave plackets, button holes and general shirty techniques in the past, so I feel like picking this pattern is a HUGE marker of just how far my sewing's come in the last few years.
Vogue 9186
The pattern lists cotton and linen among its suggested fabrics, but I erred against this and went for a beautiful John Kaldor Prestige mid-weight crepe, in gun metal grey. Drape is pretty key to most of my makes, and particularly with this dress, I wanted to achieve the cool shape but with more movement than a cotton could give. It really was the perfect choice to compliment both the pattern, and flatter my shape with an easy, flowing fit.

Drowning in fabric!
I opted for view B (with long sleeves), but stalled a bit when it came to cutting the fabric. There are some totally crazy pattern pieces, both in size and shape, and nearly all pieces require cutting out on a single layer of fabric, rather than on the fold. This is fine when you have a large sewing space or cutting table, but the pieces barely fitted across the living room floor! I waited till I had the flat to myself, and took the plunge. Beware there are lots of tailor tacks and markings to transfer too, so it's pretty time consuming - I thought I'd never see the carpet again!


It was a fairly meaty project right from the start - slashing the front pattern piece and sewing a covered button placket is the first bit of the make - and the sewing took me a whole weekend (when I say whole I mean WHOLE)! I hadn't made a regular button placket till last month, never mind a covered one, but I really enjoyed the precision required to make it come together. And from the outset, I'd been expecting the elasticized casing to be really difficult, but it was actually one of the easiest bits!

End of day 1 progress
To say I had initially been intimidated by the number of steps from start to finish, I managed to follow the instructions with ease and at a decent pace. I'd completed everything apart from the sleeves and hem at the end of day 1. Making the sleeves the next day took agessssss. Whilst some of my top stitching isn't as neat as it could be, it was a fun challenge and I'd still rate them as a decent first attempt - I'm hopeful for future sleeves!

First sleeve placket!
Finished sleeve detail, featuring AMAZING buttons from Textile Garden
My only niggle with the pattern is that the sleeves seemed way too big for the armhole, and were really difficult to ease in. In hindsight, I don't think there should have been much ease at all as they bubble up from the drop-shouldered seam, where they should lied flat. I guess it sort of looks intentional when you take into account the rest of the dress, so lets just say its a design feature...

Side detail
At that point I had to take a break - does anyone else start to dislike projects for no rational reason other than you're tired from spending so much time on them? I came back to it with fresh eyes, quite literally when it came to adding the buttons (ho ho, sorry terrible pun). The amazing eye buttons are from Textile Garden - thanks Marilla Walker for the recommendation! - and I think they're perfect for the quirky feel of the dress. I skipped the decorative button at the collar and just opted for a snap fastening instead. Finally, I finished the dress with a narrow hem on the advice of the pattern, and I really thought I'd struggle with the curved edge, but it turned out great. More narrow hemming in future!

Back view
The asymmetric side of the dress has turned out a little longer on me than how it looks on the pattern (I'm 5ft 6") but I'm really happy with it. It also has a pocket on the shorter side, which feels a bit pointless so I'd probably skip it in future. Otherwise I'd change very little if I made it again, apart from putting a bit more work into setting the sleeve in smoothly.


In short, I LOVE the finished dress! The fabric was easy to work with and I'd definitely use it again for any project that requires a good drape - luckily there are plenty of colours to choose from! The pattern requires a lot of attention to detail (there's a fair bit of topstitching), so it's maybe not for the impatient or those looking for a quick win, but it's a great sew for slowing down and investing time in practicing some more challenging techniques. I can totally see how people get hooked on shirt making now! For some other cool versions see Alex's and Eli's.

Thanks Sara for taking pictures (it was pretty windy if you couldn't already tell)!
Thank you to Sew Essential for spurring me on and picking me up out of my sewing lull with some fab supplies. I have 3 more shirt/shirt dresses in the queue, so no stopping me now! Check out the Sew Essential blog for inspiration, tips and tricks, and the website for all of your sewing needs. 

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Talvikki two meets Nita three (and it wasn't quite meant to be)

finished project
Do you ever feel completely underwhelmed by your makes? The sort that don't turn out too bad, but should have turned out amazing. The ones that had all the ingredients to be the very best versions of themselves - you've tried and tested the pattern and found amazing fabric - but the the finished results just leave you feeling a bit 'meh'? Well that's how I feel about my second attempt at the Talvikki Sweater and my third Nita Wrap Skirt...

Talvikki meets Nita: my underwhelmed face
I bought this amazing wool mix fabric from Barry's way back at Sew Brum, with the Talvikki in mind. My first Talvikki was hot off the machine at the time and I was desperate to make another in quick succession. It has the feel of a light weight boiled wool with a slight stretch. The print drew me in and I thought it would be perfect. 

The beautiful print up close
When I finally got around to the make, I sewed it in record time; even making a bit more effort with stabilising the shoulders as this one really was all about showing off the lovely fabric. I didn't have any clear elastic as the pattern suggests, so I used strips of jersey to support both the shoulder seams and turtleneck.

Stabilising the shoulders with jersey
On the whole, the finished thing leaves me feeling a bit deflated. I'm not sure that the Talvikki works in such a loud print, or maybe the print doesn't work on me - it's now I remember why I usually steer clear of most prints. (My boyfriend suggested it made me look like a wotsit not long after taking these pictures - not exactly the look I was going for)! The lack of stretch and difference in drape of the fabric means it doesn't sit quite as well as I'd hoped. I've rolled the sleeves up as they look too wide and hollow otherwise, and the dropped shoulders look less smooth and more boxy than they would in a jersey.

Back view

And then there's the Nita Wrap Skirt. I pattern tested this one using polka dot crepe and used pleather for my second version, and they're both amongst the most worn items in my wardrobe. I was really interested in a mid length denim version, and was totally convinced that it would be perfect in combination with the Talvikki based on my Pinterest inspo: 

Pinterest perfection
In reality, I think the pairing makes me look a bit bloated and frumpy. Perhaps I'm being overly critical as the skirt isn't so bad at all and definitely a wearable garment, but it's just not quite lived up to my styling expectations (see image below compared to image above)!

Not quite a Pinterest fail, but not my favourite
I left the hem raw as I thought this might add a bit of an 'edge'. I'm hoping it will distress a bit more naturally after a run through the wash (and hopefully the denim will lighten a bit too), but if I'm still not convinced, I'll chop it off and hem it properly. One thing I'm really proud of is the contrast topstitching down the front. I would've loved to topstitch along the whole waistband, but after giving it a go on the underside wrap, I found that the bulk made it too difficult to do neatly.


Although both garments definitely don't go together hand in hand, the Nita is the first tick off my #2017makenine, and the Talvikki marks the final make from my winter sewing list - which I can't quite believe I actually finished! I hate the thought of any make languishing in the back of the wardrobe, particularly ones like these that are perfectly wearable, but I just have a few niggles over. I'm sure the Nita will get the wear it deserves come spring and summer. The denim actually gives it a bit more structure and prevents it flying open when walking, unlike my first version which is flash central without tights! And while I want to love the Talvikki more, I think it might be relegated to a house-only jumper for now (particularly after the wotsits comparison...). Styling suggestions to help me get the most out of the two are very welcome!

At least it was sunny for pictures - thanks Chris!
I'm always a little tentative about posting my 'meh' makes, but I guess it's good for providing a bit of balance. Not everything works out, even the ones that should - in this case, it's probably a combination of lofty ambitions and wrong fabric choices. How do other people feel about sharing the makes that leave them feeling a bit deflated? And what do you do with yours? Do you try to salvage them, pretend they never happened or grin, bear and wear?

Some special makes for someone else...
In other news, most of my personal sewing time has been eaten up by a special project I'm working on for someone else (see above). I'm excited to share it as soon as I can, but also looking forward to getting a bit more making time back for me. I have the loveliest fabric and pattern from Sew Essential queued up, which I'm hoping will give me just the boost I need!

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Another RTW rip off: Rise Turtleneck hack

finished project
Another week, another RTW item to rip off (*I mean make my own version of). This time the inspiration came in the form of a knit top from Finery, a mostly online brand that sells some pretty interesting garments in terms of shape and fabric combos. The top was £65, so not quite as steep as the inspiration for last week's Sahara Shirt, but still pricey, especially when you consider how not-too-far-away it is in style from the Papercut Patterns Rise/Fall Turtleneck pattern.

A Papercut Patterns Rise Turtleneck hack!

The inspiration, c/o Finery
With just a few splices to the front pattern piece, the Rise Turtleneck served as the perfect starting point for a hack. I traced the front out so it could be cut as one rather than on the fold, then drew a 'channel' on one side and cut down the lines. This split the front into 3 pattern pieces (remembering that the long straight edges of each piece needed a 1cm seam allowance adding at cutting). I also extended the length by 12cm so there was plenty room for the top to be ruched up, and added a couple of inches to the sleeve length. In hindsight, I wish I'd have cut the Fall Turtleneck's neckband instead, but I'll keep this in mind for next time.

Edits to the front pattern piece
I cut 2 of the 'channel' pieces and sewed them together to the new main front and side front pattern pieces. Something I didn't work out until later: it helps with hemming if the top channel piece is shorter - I had to do a bit of unpicking, turn it up and restitch the seams. I made a long tie that was threaded up the channel so that it just poked out at the shoulder, and sewed it into the shoulder seam in the usual steps for construction.

Ribbed jersey from Fabworks
I used a mid-weight mauve ribbed jersey from Fabworks - they have loads of great colours in this at the minute! It worked pretty well, but had more stretch than fabrics I've used with this pattern in the past. The extra stretch, combined with the fact that I may have misjudged the seam allowance markers on my (still very new-to-me) overlocker, meant that the finished thing came out pretty big. I did a LOT of taking in - I've had to take the sides in when I've made this pattern in the past, but never this much! The shoulders still sit slightly too wide, but at least it's wearable!

Pre-hemming
After all that, I very nearly ruined it at the last hurdle - the hemming. Everything I tried seemed to stretch the fabric out in an unsightly wobble. I used my walking foot and a ball point needle, tried straight stitch and stretch stitch, but still no luck. What would everyone else recommend in this situation? In the end, I had to cut off a first attempt, and do a very narrow zig zag with the walking foot, but it's still a bit wavy.

Up close
As an experiment, I'd say it's not turned out too badly overall. I definitely have a few changes that I'd try next time, the first one being to use the Fall neckband. I'd move the channel over so it sits closer to the neck - all that taking in was sucking it further and further towards the side seam - and maybe I'll go full hog and copy the split sleeves too! Colour wise, I'm not sure it's the most flattering on me, but maybe that's because I'm so used to wearing black... hopefully it will grow on me.

Worn with a recently shortened skirt I made way way back!
I'm really enjoying seeking out inspiration from the shops. Having a definite idea of what I'm creating really spurs me on, and being able to recreate something you wanted is so so satisfying! Now to go (window) shopping to seek out what's next!

Thanks Chloe and Lucy for taking snaps in the Stitch Up shop


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Operation oversized shirt dress (the Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt)

finished project
After a bit of early New Year wardrobe lethargy, I decided to go to the shops - not to buy, but to try on for sewing inspiration. We have an &otherstories and Cos in Leeds now (my fave high street shops from my long gone days of shopping) so I went for a snoop. Deciding not to be limited by styles, I tried on anything that I liked the look of, which meant giving some new-to-me styles a go. And that's when I totally fell in love with the most perfect not-usually-me oversized shirt dress.

Handmade shirt dress - the Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt
Although I never intended to buy anything - inspiration trip only - I might have 'accidentally' bought the 'perfect' shirt dress from &OtherStories (pictured below), if only it hadn't been £85 (!!!). I'm neither a usual shirt-wearer or shirt-maker, and it's a bit silly but button holes still strike fear into my heart. But you do unexpected things when in love (with a shirt dress) so I made it my mission to make my own...

The (expensive) inspiration!
First step was finding the PERFECT pattern. After racking my brains a bit, I resorted to an Instagram cry for help, and was met with masses of wonderful comments and suggestions (so many suggestions in fact, that I had to make a Pinterest board to contain them)! Among the possible pattern matches were the Named Helmi, Deer & Doe Meliot - both of which have the perfect neckline - and a couple of sack dresses with the perfect sleeve, but none of them quite 'the one'. It was Hayley and Megan whose suggestions of the Ralph Pink Sahara Shirt made my heart sing. Apart from the collar, it looked spot on from the line drawing, and I thought it would be interesting to try a new-to-me pattern company, so I bought the PDF.

Taking the opportunity to use my Maker's Workbook
The PDF pattern has a border but no line to define it, so it was a bit tricky to trim to size, but once it was prepped, I was off! I used a plain black crepe with a good drape, similar to the shop bought version. The pattern only gives the yardage needed for the largest size (2.35m for size L) so I took a punt and bought 2.2m for the size Medium - perfect, with just a little breathing room. I skipped the faux pocket and collar pieces from my pattern cutting (though as a heads up, they would've fitted within the 2.2m) to get it as close to the inspiration garment as possible.

Getting to grips with my first overlocker!
Having never made a shirt before, I was a little tentative, but needn't have been. The instructions and illustrations are good and really easy to follow. Topstitching the very long plackets in place gave me the sweats just a little, but it was all suprisingly straightforward make. I also took the plunge and used my brand new overlocker for the first time, so it was a little bit of a learning curve in that sense - managing to re-thread it was a triumph in itself! I was quite thankful to have it as there are lots of veryyyy long seams to finish.

The finished dress!
Lovely draping from the side
In an attempt to copy the shop version's neckline, I sewed the 2 collar stand pieces together in the same manner as making the collar (without the actual collar pieces sandwiched in the middle). I attached the collar stand as instructed, and voila! The perfect neckline (phew)!

Detail and a pretty professional finish :)
And now for the much disliked task of adding button holes. The pattern says 11 buttons are needed, (though one of these is for the faux pocket which I skipped). I'm not sure if this is an 'unfortunately' or not, but there are no pattern markings given for the buttons on the pattern pieces. I ended up using 10 buttons on the placket, each spaced 7cm apart. I found that I needed a smaller button for the collar stand, but luckily I had a very little one in my stash. Of course, my first 3 were a near disaster - even after 3 successful practices on a replica placket, typical - but I soon got into the swing of it, and they look pretty good! As a possible word of warning, I found that the button placket came up a little long, but this was really easy to trim just before hemming.

11 button holes down and still standing!
The pattern recommends a rolled hem finish for the curved bottom. Now I've never done one before, but my overlocker's instructions said it could do them, so I gave it a go. I'm not exactly sure if it looks how a rolled hem should, but it does the job, and it was FAST. My first finished make of the year, and quite an exciting one, which has got me all the more inspired!

Back view
...and with a bit of a breeze!
I love love love the finished garment, and just a week from shop-try-on to wearing my own version isn't half bad - only a quick distraction from my #2017makenine plans! The shape is exactly what I wanted, and I'd say the addition of the curved yoke even makes it that little bit better than the &OtherStories version. I can definitely recommend the pattern and will be making it up again with the same tweaks  - in fact I've already got some textured black drapey fabric for version two! Who'd have thought I'd ever feel so stylish/cool in a sack dress?! It's a style I'm keen to explore further, so if you have any tips for fab oversized shirt/dress patterns please let me know in a comment below :)

Dangerously flag-like on a windy day... thanks Sara for the photos!

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Kollabora \\ The Fold Line



Out with the old and in with the new (year)!

sewing plans
Many people might be glad to see the back of it, but at least I can say that 2016 has been pretty successful for all things sewing. I feel like everything's gained a bit of momentum - finishing projects, my sewing abilities, blogging, and my overall involvement (*cough* immersion) in the sewing community. I also feel like I'm really finding my ground style-wise now, so here's a snapshot of my top 5 favourite makes from this year:

Clockwise from top left: Nita Wrap Skirt, Waver Jacket, Culotte jumpsuit, Turia Dungarees, Yona Coat

Nita Wrap Skirt in pleather
My 2nd Nita after the first I did as a pattern tester, and I was quite adventurous (maybe naive) in my fabric choice, having never sewn in faux leather before. It's a million miles from perfect and it was a tough sew, but I love it and it's my go to skirt to wear out for dinner/drinks! Number 3 is well overdue.

Papercut Patterns Waver Jacket
My first attempt at outerwear and the garment that really made me think 'woahhhh I can actually do this'! Made in wax cotton with a jazzy lining; I'm sure it'll get wear for years to come.

By Hand London Flora Culotte jumpsuit hack
Combining my love for the B6178 culottes with a proper fitting bodice that I spent much time toile-ing and adjusting. It's not exactly a wear-on-every-occasion number, but it made an appearance at a summer wedding.

Named Clothing Yona Coat
I feel like I may have been overly critical about the Yona in my original blog post, but my love for it grows with (much) wear. The wool is so warm and soft and I still can't believe I MADE A PROPER COAT!

Pauline Alice Turia Dungaree Dress
My second pair of Turia dungarees, made with a few adjustments, some super careful topstitching, and a lot of consideration over the finish of the garment. I've worn them all summer and through to winter, swapping light tops for Rise/Fall Turtlenecks layered underneath.

And not forgetting the ones that didn't make the list but almost did - my first Inari Tee Dress in black suedette, and my much used and loved Radiant Home Studio Retro Rucksack.


And now for a look at what's to come... here's my 2017 make nine:

L-R, top row: McCall's M7249, WATG clutch, Vogue 8956; middle row: denim trench, winter coat, denim wrap skirt; bottom row: McCall's 6991, Kielo Wrap Dress facing tutorial, Rosie Martin's No Patterns Needed

1. McCall's M7249 dress
I had big plans to make this in wine coloured velvet before Christmas, but never quite found the perfect fabric or the time to squeeze it in, so it's a roll over. One of my oldest friends is getting married in September - the first of our school gang! - so I think view D, without the contrast would make a pretty special dress for the occasion. And despite making my dress now being the norm, it still gives me the excuse to buy outrageous new shoes right?!

2. Wool and the Gang clutch
I've been admiring the WATG knitted purses for a while now, and particularly like the ones they stocked as a part of the &OtherStories collab. Luckily for me, I snapped up the 'Tender Loving Clutch Kit' in the post-Christmas sale with the Beetlejuice yarn. I bought an extra cone of the 'Jersey be Good' yarn in grey and peach for seconds and thirds too!
The sale's still on if you get in there quick!

3. Vogue 8956 skirt
I came across this pattern recently having seen a great version made up by @sweeetbitter84 on Instagram (Erica Bunker sewed up a fab one here too). It's a pretty good match for recreating this skirt I saw on Pinterest, but would make a great Vivienne Westwood knock off in check/tartan too!

Skirt by Yohji Yamamoto
4. Denim Trench Coat 
After all the fun of sewing the Waver Jacket and Yona Coat, I've been feeling the need for a new outerwear challenge, and this one really will be a challenge! I bought the Named Clothing Isla Trench Coat with their advent discount, and although I want a classic Mac, I'm desperate to make one that has just a slight edge like the denim one worn in the street-style snap above. If I can pull it off, I'll hopefully be wearing it come Spring!

5. The PERFECT winter coat (does is exist???)
I've been pinning my faves to a Coat Inspo board for a while, but I just can't seem to decide on what makes the perfect Winter Coat. I know it needs to be longer than the Yona Coat, and I'm thinking something a bit oversized (though as much as I like the one pictured above, I can't really see me in pink). Luckily I've got a coat to last for the time being, and quite a while to decide.

Coat Inspo board
6. Denim Nita Wrap Skirt
Again, an image from Pinterest. I'm not sure where my sudden interest in denim has come from (I never wear jeans) but the mid-length Sew DIY Nita would look perfect in denim blue. In fact, I'd be up for making another Talvikki Sweater in orange too to copy the whole look!

7. McCall's 6991 shirt
One of two patterns I chose as a prize for winning star make from The Fold Line. It doesn't look like too much from the cover, but when I looked at the line drawings, it was spot on for copying a couple of old blouses I bought years ago from Topshop. I'll skip the pocket on the front and make it in solid, block colour.

8. Kielo Wrap Dress with facing
I've slowed down on making the Kielo this year, but I'm keen to try sewing up a new one using the new facing tutorial. My first and long-time favourite Kielo's fabric is on it's way out, so I'll be looking for a nice crepe with a similarly good drape for the replacement.

9. More from No Patterns Needed
So much to make, so little time! I haven't had time to squeeze in more than the Deep V Tunic from Rosie Martin's book since I picked it up in late summer. I really enjoyed the process of drafting the pattern based on my measurements, so I'd love to give the book's Asymmetric Mini Skirt, Drip Drape Skirt, or Insert Skirt a try.

No Patterns Needed Drip Drape Skirt variation
And finally... venturing out and meeting sewing friends IRL across the year has probably had the most impact - sewing can be a solitary hobby, even with help of Insta/blog/other social platforms, so it's nice to immerse my real physical self in the real life world of fabric buying, chatting patterns and general loveliness! Thanks to everyone who I've met for being so friendly (and encouraging me to buy the fabric I was probably umming and ahhing about) and hope to see you all again and meet many more crafty people in 2017!

Happy New Year!

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Kollabora \\ The Fold Line

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