Named Clothing Pulmu High-waisted Pencil Skirt

Monday, October 17, 2016

I already made (and love) the Talvikki Sweater, so here's my second make from the new Named Clothing collection: the Pulmu High-waisted Pencil Skirt. I was drawn to the made up version on the Named website in pale blue, but what really hooked me was seeing the line drawing of the skirt. It has really interesting and quite unusual shaping, so I snapped it up, with the intention of making a good 'all-round' skirt for work and play.

My finished Pulmu
I chose a fairly heavy blue crepe/viscose that I picked up in the grab bins at Abakhan. It's especially soft and lovely up close, and blue is also my favourite colour if  I ever choose to steer away from black. To be honest, I was planning to dodge lining it if possible, but the pattern really is made to be properly lined and finished, so I unearthed this 'splatter' effect fabric from my stash (bought ages ago from the Hebden Bridge WI Rag Market). I was a little reluctant to use it as a lining as it's almost too nice, but I couldn't see me making anything else with it, so I decided that my Pulmu would have just a flash of fancy on the inside.

Pulmu fabrics and plans
I had expected it to be a bit more difficult due to it's '3 scissor' rating, but I found the make surprisingly easy for the most part. There's lots of dart sewing (some of them slightly angled), and the fun task of inserting the beautiful curved side panels (I really like sewing curves). The instructions also suggest applying interfacing to the zip, hem and vent openings before you start sewing. I've never done this before, but it makes for a real crisp and sturdy finish, and in some parts, an easier sew - particularly when it came to inserting the zip.

Accidental nail polish matching...
The only bit that had me totally baffled me was the last page of instructions, when it comes to joining the bottom of the skirt to the lining. I always understand things better from the accompanying illustrations - anyone else find that? - and when it gets to stitching linings and turning things out etc, I think it becomes pretty hard to convey in a picture. I probably confused myself more than the instructions, and after a few sessions of unpicking, I finally managed to close the vents and the skirt hem in the way that I was meant to - I think! It was really difficult to sew the vents right up to the side seams, so I ended up finishing the top of each one with a few hand stitches, just to make sure that I got it as neat as possible.

Trying to show a flash of lining from the vents
Overall I'd say that the shape is really flattering, but mine's turned out perhaps a little too 'comfortable' in fit compared to what you'd usually expect for a pencil skirt. I made up a straight size 12 (Eur 40) which is about 1cm too big on the waist and has quite a bit of give in the hips. Although I''m quite pleased with this version, I would probably shave a little off from the seams if I was to make it again - though the curved side panel eliminates the usually-easy-to-adjust side seam option, so I'd have to think about the best approach.

Side view
Capturing the nice shaping at the back
It was a little more labour-intensive than my usual skirt sewing, but I'm glad I put the effort in, particularly with the lining and the vents - a real learning experience! I really like the side panels and the little flash of lining you see when the skirt moves, and I love using hardware in a project, so the D-ring belt is just great. I thought the belt loops were a bit cumbersome at first, but once the skirt came together and the belt was threaded through, they look perfect. The one thing that I'm really disappointed with is that the fabric doesn't show off the shaping in the way it deserves, and it creases quite badly when sitting too. 

Thanks Chris (seen in shadow form) for taking pictures
So I'm not 100% happy with it, but the Pulmu was definitely a lovely pattern to sew and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants a smart skirt with a few quirks and a lovely finish. It also means I've ticked one garment off of my priority sewing list (hooray)! I'd like to try making it again in future and getting it absolutely spot on, but I'm just not sure what fabric would best highlight the darts and side panels - suggestions welcome!


Stay in touch!



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8 comments

  1. Gorgeous! I hadn't really paid much attention to this pattern when it was released, but your version has certainly spiked my interest in it.

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    1. Thank you Sam - that's such a compliment! You should definitely give it a go :) x

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  2. I think yours looks lovely! I think it would be cool to have this skirt colour-blocked so that the side panels are a different solid colour than the main front and back of the skirt. I would maybe even go so far as to change the belt colour as well. I think you could pull it off. :) Don't you just love hardware, though?! It makes things look so "professional".

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    1. Thanks Carlee! Yeah I saw that @style_of_constructing (on Instagram) made an amazing version with colour-blocked side panels, so might have to give something like that a go in future. And I absolutely love hardware - always makes the clothes seem so well finished and professional :)

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  3. I lie your skirt very much ! I just finished my talvikki and now I am thinking about making this skirt. But the same as you , I am thinking what fabric to choose to show all those seams . Thank you for sharing!

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    1. Thank you Camelia! Just checked out your Talvikki and it looks fab :) Love the colour x

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  4. Looks great on you! Love the D-rings xox

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    1. Thank you! Always my favourite finishing touch :) xx

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